USA CYCLE FOR PROVIDENCE

FINAL POSTING

2008-07-28T09:36:00.016-06:00

This cycle across the US has indeed lived up to the reputation of the organisers, America by Bicycle (http://www.abbike.com/ ). Their logistical input was top class regarding mechanical support, route directions, motel and meal reservations, support on the road and dealing with contingencies as they cropped up. 10 out of 10.

MY WORRIES
My worries at the start concerned the day-in day-out cycling; how the body and its parts would cope and how life with this group would pan out.

It was a ‘motley’ group that assembled in San Francisco on May 31…from 9 different countries with ages ranging from 17 to 70. We were complete strangers (apart presumably from the 4 married couples) who were not selected but just presented themselves for this challenge. We would live and rub shoulders for over 7 weeks while on tour. Not only did the group bond into a close unit of friends with each one looking out for the other but our group readily accepted those who joined in at the various rest-days for sections of the trip. Those late-comers commented on this as days went by. The number of e-mails flying between cyclists indicate the friendships that were formed over the 52 consecutive days. As the main group broke up in Portsmouth, New Hampshire invitations to homes, states and countries were issued with heart. So many expressed a wish to come and cycle in Ireland. I’d love to design a 10-15 day cycling route to take in the scenic and historic spots and make it available.

I was lucky that no serious health issues arose over the 54 days I was out on the road. Nothing serious that didn’t clear up in two or three days. Over the first six days my butt was unusually getting progressively sorer. I worried how it would be after seven weeks. But with treatment with hydrocortisone and skin-aid purchased in Wal-Mart in Winnemucca things began to clear up and within 2 days I was as comfortable as if sitting in a car. The slight well-documented problem with my left knee cleared quickly principally by altering my early morning pace. A practice to continue with.Apart from these, nothing. Not even a head cold, thank God. The wettings we got during the last week dried up quickly in the warm atmosphere unlike at home.

I can honestly say that I went to bed each night looking forward to getting up on the bike the following morning. No dog days; no wishing that it would be over soon. In Portsmouth as others were packing up to go home I was lucky on two counts. I had been focusing on two extra days for a long while before and then with Ted and Michael there I never felt alone on the road. From one support team I had just passed into the care of another. As someone said ‘All this long distance cycling is cyclogical’.

REASON TO CYCLE
Having a reason for the challenge outside of oneself was important. Just doing it for personal satisfaction only left space for disenchantment. Many of the cyclists were on a mission for a cause….in many cases causes that had connection with their own or their families lives. For me, Providence and knowing that the children prayed for Sir Richard at assembly each morning was like a tailwind. If things looked dark, I knew they were with me. I just couldn’t let them down. They were rooting for me. after the day’s cycle into Indianapolis fell through and then the day cleared up I did feel a bit down. That evening when Jay put me in contact with Larry, George and Rick that they were looking for a fourth to go back and do the missed 62 miles on the rest day, I really felt that the day was saved. I would have been so disappointed to have left a gap in the trip. It was the prayers at assembly that put Jay my way that evening. Coming down from Portsmouth to Providence with Ted and Michael, I thought many times that here was three chasing down the east coast of the US all for a small (but so important) school in the north-east of India. The internet isn’t the only thing that connects people.

SCENERY

Apart from being in San Jose last August for the birth of Saoirse, this was to be my first experience of moving about here. I was looking forward to seeing the country at grassroots level. I appreciate I didn’t see everything but what I saw really impressed me. California impressed with the high Sierras and my first introduction to the travails of those early pioneers like the Donners. The climbs of California changed to the dry sage-covered deserts of Nevada that gave me new understandings of words and phrases like ‘vast, enormous, as far as the eye can see, straight, flat’. That first view of the salt deserts of Utah from the windy height above Wendover was something else. From Provo in Utah the dried-up lake-bed deserts continued right into Colorado before climbing to the majestic Rockies. At first the green was refreshing before the snow appeared on either side as we scaled Monarch Pass. 11,312 feet. I had never cycled above 2000 feet before this trip. The descent right into Kansas brought on the agricultural element and that was so interesting with grain, feedlots and oil-jacks. And the Greyhound Hall of Fame in Abilene. Missouri was doubly memorable – those endless rolling hills and my visit to Tipperary and meeting Rick Stanford there. The tail end of the flooding in the Missouri and Mississippi was still evident and crossing the Mississippi was the notional half way point. Corn (maize) and soya predominated the scenery through Illinois, Indiana and Ohio. Now the state lines were being crossed in quick succession and once Erie was reached on the Lake there was a mental countdown in operation. Now it was vines across Pennsylvania and into New York state. Another local highlight on Tipperary Hill in Syracuse. The terrain began to ripple as the trip moved into New England and the Berkshires with their sharp climbs right up to the second last day ensured that we kept our feet on the ground (but only metaphorically). That final approach to the Atlantic at Wallis Beach was charged emotionally and when Ted told me that he had a friend who came along (Michael Ryan walks up behind me) there was no point in trying to bite the lip and hold back. We had joined the oceans. Down the New Hampshire coast with a tailwind was pure pleasure with the Atlantic as a companion.I had a lot of planning done for the trip down through Boston (many thought I was crazy to attempt it) and it went without a hitch. Mostly built-up areas for those last two days and the constant threat of thunderstorms ahead. At the finish it wasn’t ‘Thank God it’s over’ but rather ‘Thank God that I have arrived safely’. It’s lovely countryside with such variety. I really need to scan back over the thousands of photos to relive it all.

PEOPLE
The people that I encountered along the way impressed with their genuine interest in what we were doing and full of encouragement. ‘Well, good for you’. Not only in what I was doing but I noticed that Americans among themselves were so positive and supportive with not a trace of belittlement. In all situations, restaurants, stores, on the street and road, asking for directions there was a genuine desire to assist even to go out of their way. ‘Put your bike in the back of the truck and I’ll bring you to the intersection’. When they told you to ‘Have a nice day’ I take it now as more than just a mere formula. My impressions of the American people was also confirmed with my experiences with those on the trip (70%). No one was left to fend for himself. Each one of them so interested and so interesting. My experiences didn’t tally with the stereotyped Yank.

PROVIDENCE
Attracting of funds for Providence, Shillong was the purpose of the cycle. Please God , it will be successful in that regard and the children in Providence will have a better opportunity in life as a result. My thanks to those who supported the cause right from the start and who have come on board along the way. I would only love to be able to get across how much every single Euro/Dollar can make a difference to their chances. And once they have an education, horizons broaden and the sky is the limit not only for themselves but for their families in years to come. A pebble cast into the pond at this stage will send out ripples that will continue right to the most distant shore. Those kids are worth every single mile that I cycled and every foot that I climbed. And they did their bit – their constant prayers were a wind that was always going my way.

I find it difficult and unfair to single out particular high and low points. It was not a continuum but a sequence of highs. There’s no part of it that I want to forget. I’d dearly love to switch on that video camera in my head and relive it all again…scenery, people and experiences.

BLOG
Originally I decided to keep a blog (my first blog ever) and thought that it would take just half an hour each evening. It took considerably more but the fact that so many were logging on (more than the number of miles that I cycled) made the task one of interest and a labour of love. It was my homework each evening and had to be done. I felt you were with me every mile of the way. I cannot imagine how it would have been if there was no contact with base (and with so many parts of the world) from start to finish. Days would have been more difficult and the temptation to pack it in even for part of a day would have been greater. I’m thrilled now that I decided to do the blog and don’t regret a moment I spent on it. Credit for that is to you. Comments coming in were so positive and they came from all over – Ireland, England, USA, Netherlands, India, Australia and South America. Would have loved to reply to them all but not possible. But they were of as much interest to me as, hopefully, the daily posting was to you.

My thanks to all who assisted me in the various parts of the cycle (on the road, navigation, support, advice, psychological, at the start and at the end) and to those who did Trojan work in the fundraising aspect.

Regarding ‘blog withdrawal syndrome’ that some of you mentioned I have some possible suggestions for relief:

Using numbers from the cycling totals (adapt the units according to the jurisdiction)
Go for a cycle of 4021 metres i.e 4.021 km ( from distance cycled)
Go for a cycle for 288 minutes i.e 4 hrs 48 minutes (from total time)
Go for a cycle of 25.76 miles. (from height climbed)
Cycle for 11 miles. (from lbs lost)
Cycle for 1300 metres i.e.1.3 km (from number of centuries)

Fix 11 punctures
Cycle through 15 parishes (from number of states crossed)
Cycle through 4 counties (from number of time zones)

You’ll feel the better for it and remember, thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 54 OF 54; JULY 24; SHARON (MASS) TO PROVIDENCE(RI)

2008-07-24T21:15:00.005-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 29 miles
Cycling time: 2 hrs 19 mins
Average Speed: 12.7 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 983 ft

Average Heart rate: 114 bpm

Distance so far: 4021 miles

Ascent so far: 129,857 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 11
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: There is a double dedication for this special final day.
I cycled in gratitude to all those who have contributed to Providence because of this cycle. Your contributions go in full to the benefit of the children. The fund is still open for others to contribute.
I also cycled for the Unknown Soldier. There are people, I am sure that I should have mentioned. And there are children in Providence who did not appear in the dedications. Do not think that you are not included. You are. This most special day is for you.

Now on the final day. Unbelievable that it has arrived. This day will see the culmination of something that started almost two years ago as a grand notion and aspiration. I knew it would be an emotional one.

I had stayed in Ted’s house overnight and for the first time in seven weeks I didn’t have my bike in the bedroom. Would it be OK and cosy in the garage? Should I drop down during the night just to re-assure it in the early hours? However, both of us got through the night just fine.

Only had 29 miles to do today to complete the challenge. Today would be heavily charged so I was glad I got plenty of mileage done yesterday. Started at 11 am (a late start) on Walpole Road just where we had finished. The weather was fine though the forecast was for trouble. Still on rural roads for the 4 miles to the rendezvous with Bob.

Along the road I had to struggle to concentrate. The occasion was very much on my mind. A lapse could spell disaster at any moment. What a pity that would be. I spotted a number of roads that reassured me and I just knew that they were guiding me. There had been so many Charles Roads back Boston way and one near my route in Pawtuckett. No sign of a Barrie (Barry) Road. I didn’t really expect to see a Sinead Road or a Saoirse Street. As time went by and with Ted and Michael firmly in control of navigation I regained my focus. No call for any heroics at this stage (or at any stage)
We rendezvoused with Bob as arranged at the junction of Washington and Hickory Road just south of North Attleboro. He was going to lead me along a bike-friendly route to central Providence. The skies were inclined to put a stop to our gallop. Motorists at the junction suggested that we take shelter from the approaching storm. A nearby pharmacy was established as base. Very fortunate. For almost half an hour it bucketed and there was no going anywhere. When it had eased off and the lightning had stopped Bob and I pulled out for this stage….a little over twenty miles ahead.

With so much surface water about and trying to keep an eye on Bob there was no opportunity for photos. Puddles of water could be hiding serious hazards. Bob’s route zig-zagged through built-up areas and his flashers were my lifeline. If I lost those I was lost. He excelled by slowing at every type of junction. On the roads we took there was no Welcome to Rhode Island notice for a photo. The rain (eased a little) was another factor against photos.
I cycled through Cumberland and Pawtuckett and down Blackstone Boulevard (with its new bike lane) before swinging in by the Amtrak Station in Providence. The first thing I spotted inside the central concourse was a large welcome sign. I accepted graciously.
Ted had arranged a ‘few people’ for an official arrival at Water Place Park just beneath Rhode Island State House, atop of which stands the Independance Man. It is a Venice inspired area for strolling and for free concerts.
The plan was that I would arrive at 3.20 pm by coming through the tunnel at the far end and cycle around to the right to finish at the covered section. There had been pretty constant rain but it eased off at this stage.

I arrived to a welcome by the Mayor of Providence, David Cicilline, members of the India Association of Rhode Island, Michael Ryan, Pat Dalton (Golden and Providence) and many friends of Ted and Karin. It was emotional to finally complete but also to be received graciously. Michael and Ted had a Welcome banner up with the Ireland and India flags. In time the wind vented its anger on the same banner.
The mayor congratulated me on the achievement and presented a beautiful Citizens Citation. I was chuffed. I thanked all for their welcome and for being there and spoke of today as the culmination of an undertaking that was almost two years old. It was always going to be for the benefit of Providence from the start. The 4000 miles had been cycled; the USA had been traversed; the 54 days finished and the challenge complete. Thank God there had been no ill-effects or health issues. I had been so lucky.

Last night Ted and Karin hosted a reception in their beautiful home for friends to mark the conclusion. Was thrilled to meet so many genuinely interested people and relax in a friendly atmosphere.
Thank God for the health and thank god for the energy.

NUMBERS FOR THE COMPLETE TRIP
Distance cycled: 4,021 miles. (6721 km)
Hours of cycling: 288 hours.
Feet climbed: 129, 857 feet (25.76 miles or 41 km)
Calories burned: 252,509 calories.
Average Heartbeat: 109 beats per minute.
Average Cadence: 75 revs per minute.
Number of lbs lost ; 11 lbs
Centuries: 13
Punctures; 11
Days: 49 days cycling; 5 days rest.
States crossed : 15
Time Zones: 4

NB: There will one more general posting to the blog in the next few days. Thanks to all who kept in contact by means of it and to those who contributed comments.

DAY 53 of 54: JULY 22: PORTSMOUTH (NH) TO SHARON (MASS)

2008-07-23T22:23:00.008-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 86 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 47 mins
Average Speed: 14.9 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 3161 feet.
Average Heart rate: 108 bpm

Distance so far: 3,992 miles

Ascent so far: 128,874 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 11

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today my cycling was dedicated to my older brothers Sean, Eddie, Nicholas and to my sister Mary. They toughened me up in the early days. And for my deceased mother and father…from my father an athletic interest and from my mother good nourishment. Thank you all.

A special day of cycling – had to build own cue-sheet, new support team, through a major city and travelling south for a change.
For me it was alarm, breakfast and loading as usual. At the same time twenty of the other cyclists were checking out and loading all their gear onto the shuttle for Boston Airport. Another round of farewells and photographs. Never would our unique group be together again, but I know that we’ll be in contact
Ted and I went over the route one more time in the lobby. Cue sheets checked, maps highlighted and suggested stops marked. This was the first such day on this trip. ABB weren’t there should things go wrong.
I started out from Wallis Beach where we dipped our wheels in the Atlantic yesterday. At this hour of 7 a.m. there was no problem find parking space. Bike reassembled and ready to hit the road. Weather conditions were a mixed bag. Scattered rain in the morning with the threat of thunderstorms in the afternoon but a north-east wind. I liked that idea.
For a change I was heading southwards with a light north-east wind in my back. Was lovely to have the ocean there on the left and I was getting use to that sea smell again. Not a hill in sight till after Boston. I was beginning to miss those climbs!!

Navigation for the first 20 miles was very direct. Stick to the coast. After that it would be more of a challenge. But, I like plotting out routes and drawing up a cue-sheet. (I never used a cue-sheet before this trip but I see their advantage now. I hardly looked at the map today.) When hill-walking with the O’Dwyers, Brownes and Kennedys I always liked depending on the compass to follow a route and preferably with a little fog. Getting through Boston would be a challenge that I looked forward to.
The early miles passed through Hampton. A busy resort by the looks of it. Some fine residences about, but on the main strip it gave the impression of a Bundoran. At this hour the only movement was people off to restaurants for breakfast.
I was disappointed that there was no notice that I was now entering Massachusetts with a welcome sign. I went back and enquired. Even locals couldn’t help. On the far side facing the other way there was a welcome to New Hampshire. Had to be satisfied with the notice that I was entering Salisbury, the first town in Massachusetts. Utah was the only other state with no Welcome sign as we entered at Wendover.
On Ferry Road before Newburyport I had a touch of the rural. A nice road with bulrushes on both sides at one stage. There was a detour from our planned route because of a bridge being out. It didn’t add many extra miles or cause difficulty.
While on the detour I spotted an interesting WANTED sign. I think I have a few addresses from Illinois and Indiana that I can supply. No dogs at all entered the picture today.
Coming into Salem (of the witches) brought me over the massive bridge and I continued through the road construction (resurfacing). Support staff had to do a bit of a round and fell behind. Saw a number of ‘witches’ walking about who were tour guides or hostesses in restaurants. Enquired about the location of the courthouse (where we arranged to meet) to be told that there were three along the street. “Which one would you like?”

Support staff today (Ted and Michael) had a hard act to follow after the performance of ABB over the last seven weeks. But they turned up trumps in all aspects. Had a green shopping bag tied to the roof-rack and I could spot it in the traffic. No missed turns and at all landmarks on or before schedule.
Here was the three of us chasing down the east coast of USA and the common link between us was that we were at this for Providence and its team. Those kids deserve the best. They’re worth it.
Just after noon as we passed through Everett, the downtown of Boston appeared on the skyline. Everett had all the services of an active neighbourhood including its Credit Union. I did notice that some few motorists were a little more impatient than in other states. Pulling out in front of you thinking that cyclists move at walking pace. And cars reversing out onto busy roads. I can’t say that there was real danger but it was different.
Entered central Boston after crossing over Charlestown Bridge. Was a tad underwhelmed by the said bridge. For some reason I had expected it to be an architectural gem.
Boston was lunchtime. We had arrived at 1 pm, a half-hour ahead of expected time of arrival. Pulled up at Quincy Market and there was only one place that I wanted to eat…Dick’s Last Resort where you got to eat with attitude. Had the Wednesday Special… ‘Dick’s Big Pig’. Even got crowned by the waitress.

From Dick’s Last Resort I wanted to ring Sinead (she worked there in summer 1998) and t’was then I found out that I had lost the phone. Had neglected to zip up my trunk bag fully after leaving Salem and there were many bumps along the way. Tried ringing it and went into voicemail straight away. At this stage it’s in smithereens some where along a Massachusetts road.
All morning had been fine with a slight tailwind but rain appeared as I restarted after lunch. Raingear on as I cycled up between the towering office blocks in downtown. Made great headway by cycling right up to the red lights and then first away. State Street and left onto Congress, over the bridge and right onto A Street. By the time I was halfway down Dorchester the rain jacket was off again and it stayed off for the rest of the day.
Dorchester passed through south Boston which has strong Irish connections. At one junction there was the large church of the Blessed Mother Teresa parish. Dorchester went on for miles in a straight line till I crossed over the Neponset River.

In the mid afternoon a severe storm warning was issued although it was still dry. It was moving north-eastwards from Providence. Even at 3.30 pm it was unusually dark but I was keen to cycle on till rain arrived. Just after Sharon heavy drops began to fall and I knew this was it. No point in getting soaked unnecessarily when a major part of the journey to Providence had been covered.
No sooner had we packed in the bike but the heavens opened. I was just 4.5 miles short of the best scenario that I had planned out for today. 86 miles done and just about 40 for tomorrow. On the Interstate back to Providence traffic almost came to a standstill with the lack of visibility. In Providence itself near Ted’s house there was plenty of debris (including heavy branches) along the roads and streets. At 8 pm tonight there was another vicious thunderstorm with the heavens bucketing down. Hope the skies are fully drained now.

Tomorrow is the last day of this adventure. I can’t believe it. Leaving San Francisco this day seemed a thousand years off. Now it is here. Only one more effort to complete the challenge. Incredible. And I don’t feel tired nor jaded nor exhausted.

A very successful and exciting day for so many reasons. I cycled as strong as ever and enjoyed every single minute of it. Pity about the phone.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 52 of 54: JULY 22: MANCHESTER (NH) TO PORTSMOUTH (NH)

2008-07-22T19:04:00.000-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 70 miles
Cycling time: 4 hrs 59 mins
Average Speed: 14.1 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 2649 ft

Average Heart rate: 100 bpm

Distance so far: 3,906 miles

Ascent so far: 125,713 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 11
Today’s Profile:
Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today I cycled for my own family at home in Tipperary and in California who have supported me all the way in matters dealing with Providence, Shillong and with this cycle. I know I can depend on them and fell so proud of them. I hope they feel the same way.

Providence [10]: Providence now is giving every support possible to its pupils when they leave and set up businesses or take on apprenticeships. Total support at first and decreasing as time passes to encourage independence.

For the general group this was their final day; incredible that the challenge was seen out to the bitter end. For me it was special as one of the group but my mission for providence continues for another two days.

Last night after uploading the post to the blog I went to admire my new wheel to be confronted with an absolute flat (#11). Before retiring it had to be replaced. This morning the side was bulging and the tyre was pinching the tube. Another period spent sorting that out before breakfast; it was a matter of technique. Won’t happen again.
Breakfast was a little subdued as each tried to deal with his own thoughts. For the final parade we were asked to wear the ABB shirts. To the beach it was just over 50 miles with no climbs as serious as yesterday.
Leaving the motel, most rode off in groups. Cameras were there to catch small clusters of cyclists. This was the last loading of the van and signing off of the list. In San Francisco this day seemed so very far away. Now it was real. I cycled with John, Amy, Rick and Jay to the SAG stop. A nice morning but no sunshine. It was hazy and we really wished that the rain would stay away.
Everything today was unique in that it would be the last one for the full group. This was a group of 40 individuals with nothing in common except the desire to ride across the USA. It was that common desire that bonded the group and made it so positive.
There was only one SAG today but all assembled at Rye High School at 11.30 for the final approach to the Atlantic. We all tried to sum up the experience and felt fortunate that no serious incidents had occurred. We had finally done it although even the strongest riders had doubts about their ability to carry it off at the start. Another group photo was arranged and will be treasured.
Two police cars arrived and took us on the 3 mile trip to Wallis Beach at a handy pace. After the rains of the last few days, it pleased that the sun shone for the ceremony. Friends of cyclists had assembled down there earlier on and the usual bathers were there. All heads strained to catch the first glimpse of the Atlantic but it was the ocean and seaweed smell that hit first.
Ted from Rhode Island was there as I knew he would from our conversations over the last few days. This was the first time we met. All contact before was through technology. We carried the bikes over the soft sand and then dipped the front wheel in the Atlantic brine. Mission accomplished for almost everybody.
Ted told me he had a friend come along. I turned and there was Michael Ryan. I almost dropped. It was so good to share that moment with him. These final moments of the adventure were emotionally charged and seeing Michael just added to it all. Between the jigs and the reels I got no photo on my own camera of my dipping in the ocean. I know Ted has some.
Officially the ABB trip finished here and especially those with family there began to scatter. I wanted to stay around for a while. It had taken so long to get here. Finally after I’d arranged to meet up with Michael and Ted later on, I headed off into Portsmouth and the motel. I took a detour out around Route 1B along the shore. No need to rush now. At the motel some cyclists were already busy boxing their machines for flying home in the morning

I set about finalising the route for tomorrow and have it ready for Ted and Michael when they called. I’m down to the last two days now. My mission will be accomplished when I arrive in Providence…another 130 miles or so. My evening is following the pattern of the last 52. I’m really looking forward to this new element of the challenge. And I have two good men in support doing SAG for me. they will arrive back in at the motel at 6.30 for the off.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 51 of 54: JULY 21: BRATTLEBORO (VT) TO MANCHESTER (NH)

2008-07-21T21:36:00.009-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 91 miles
Cycling time: 7 hrs 19 mins
Average Speed: 12.5 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 5907 ft

Average Heart rate: 107 bpm

Distance so far: 3,836 miles

Ascent so far: 123,064 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 10

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: My cycle today was for Kordolin, Rickey and Michael so that they and all the pupils in Providence will get the opportunity of the type of education that Edmund Rice envisaged.

I had been made aware that the sting was in the tail i.e that this trip to Manchester would be a testing one. Forewarned is forearmed. Thanks Andrew.

PROVIDENCE [9] Providence is more than just a school…it is a centre of care. The children are provided with a hot meal each day; visits by medical personnel are arranged; clothes and shoes are distributed discretely as are umbrellas for the monsoon rains.

Some of you may have noticed that yesterday’s posting was a day late. I had it all ready on time but couldn’t connect to the internet in Brattleboro. Neither did the mobile or room phones work.

Distance for today wasn’t the longest but the climbs decided that we should start early with loading at 6.30. The outlook for the day was gloomy although there was no rain as we left. Still, everyone had raingear on the ready. Mist was drifting down from the hills to meet us on the way up.
Shortly after passing over the Connecticut River in Brattleboro and as we climbed out of the river valley we entered New Hampshire (The Granite State). Two states in two days. New Hampshire with Maine and Vermont make up New England and the state’s motto is ‘Live Free or Die’ referring back to it’s long held belief in freedom. New Hampshire was the first region to break away from English rule in 1776. It’s about the same size as Munster with a population of 1.2 million. New Hampshire is the first primary to be held in the presidential election cycle. Earl Tupper who blessed the modern luncher with Tupperware was a native of New Hampshire.
Some serious climbing today over the Berkshires known for their sharp steep inclines. Fortunately heat was not a factor on these that were all in the 10% region with one of them hitting 18%. It was down to the lowest gear or pedal out of the saddle. None of the group did the unthinkable of walking. One of the most demanding was up Joe English Road. Why didn’t he stay at home rather than come over here building hills!
Very few fields of crops to be seen. In trees most of the time and it reminded me of cycling in Wicklow from Glendalough down to Rathdrum or down by Shillelagh or the Glen of the Downs as it used to be. Plenty of still small lakes with lots of holiday cabins in the trees and each one of them with canoes and snow-mobiles alongside.

For 1 mile today we cycled along a dirt road, the only time we have done so. For some unknown reason I met more cars and pick-ups on that 1 mile than on any other 3 mile stretch today. it was rough but I knew that it was only for a short stretch.

Followed by a dog again today but I think the poor thing did it because he was attempting to live up to the image. Didn't feel threatened.

Francestown at the second SAG was typical of the villages with white-timbered churches and so many old houses built of stone. Familiar town names cropped up again especially Antrim. There was another Dublin south of the route but too far away (15 miles) for a side-trip.
It was murky and misty all day without any drops falling but thunder sounded behind me when 20 miles from destination. Rain came down heavily and I took shelter in a carport for a short period when just 5 miles out from Manchester. The thunder didn’t really come over so it was only the discomfort of being soaked I had to contend with. No chill in the air. Really this has been the first continuously wet day we have had over the seven weeks. That’s a new experience for me.
I arrived in Manchester shortly after 2.30 with the rain still coming down heavily. No need to worry with the certainty of a hot shower and dry clothes. Not everyone can be sure of those. As I came in along Donald Street a large cemetery on my left was dominated by an ornate grave with Harrington inscribed on it in large letters. With no internet or phones last night I just wondered if the tomb was an omen that Padraig had blown it. No such significance as I later found out. With Dublin (NH) being far off the mark today I wondered if it was a sign. No, for 23 reasons.
Manchester is the largest city in New Hampshire ( but not the capital). It prospered as a cotton mill town and took its name as it wished to be as its English namesake. There is a strong (21%) Irish community dating from the mill days. Dick and Mac McDonald the founders of the fast-food chain were natives of the town.
My first task in Manchester before going to the motel was to go about a replacement rear wheel. I thought it better not to leave it to the last day. The first shop( a large bike shop) couldn’t help but I got fixed up in the Bike Barn and had the new one fitted and ready for the road in 10 minutes. Now I could return the loaned wheel I had to Gerard. I finally made it to the motel at 3.30 like a pessimistic cyclist…with a spare wheel strapped to my back. That’s one less item to worry about in Portsmouth.
Tonight’s dinner was the official end of trip occasion as some will leave with their families after the wheel dip tomorrow at 12.30. Presentation of certificates and novelty awards to all and each cyclist spoke about what the adventure had meant for him/her. It was an emotional time for a group that had bonded so well. However the alarm goes off tomorrow morning again…. the last time for them and the third last time for me. Let’s hope the weather will be kind to us for the ceremony on the Atlantic beach. Gary and Alan both had 17 flats and were crowned while Piet has gone flat free....so far.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 50 OF 54: JULY 20: LATHAM (NY) TO BRATTLEBORO (VT)

2008-07-21T14:39:00.008-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 77 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 08 mins
Average Speed: 15 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 2038 ft

Average Heart rate: 111 bpm

Distance so far: 3663 miles

Ascent so far: 115,519 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 10

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today I cycled for students in Providence that I have not mentioned by name (except Kiran, Christopher and Bantimai) If you are in Providence, this cycling effort is for you.

A new state and back to the mountains as we line up for the final descent to the Atlantic.

Providence [8] Since Abbey India Project started, 32 Abbey students have gone to assist in Providence and the whole experience has made a deep and lasting impression. Ten more students are preparing to travel out in Oct/Nov 2008.

Pulling out onto the quiet Sunday morning roads of Latham at 7 a.m. there was a bit of drizzle and it seemed we were in for an unpleasant day. However by the time I had got 3 miles done the rain jacket was off and stayed off for the day. Just 80 miles lay ahead but we knew that mountains lay between ourselves and destination.
After 4 miles I crossed over the Hudson as it flowed south to New York City. Immediately across the bridge lay the entrance to Troy, home of Uncle Sam. Initially Troy didn’t look appealing but as I climbed up to higher ground it was quite impressive. This was a short sharp climb of just over a mile and it set the tone for the rest of the day
Countryside was very green with the rising ground appearing ahead. No long stretches of road or large tracts of corn to be seen. . If the sun were strong there would have been plenty of shade.
On my right I spotted the workshop and display of a chainsaw artist who fashioned large pieces from trunks of trees using a chainsaw . The finished bears and lions looked most impressive. No sign of the artist himself about yet. It was a bit early for business.
First SAG was in New York (but just about) Everyone was well warmed up at this stage and eager for the climb ahead. Still no great heat from the sun and fingers crossed that it would remain overcast for the next hour or two. Each group moved out with a stateline as the next item of interest.

State No 12 of this long list. We are entering the Green Mountain State (Vermont in French) and cycling west to east across the very southern end of the state. Dairying is the mainstay of its agricultural economy…. not surprising, it is the first home of Ben and Jerry ice-creams. Maple syrup seems to be on sale at most farmers places. Hunting of moose, black bear deer and wild turkeys bring huntsmen to its 80 0,000 acres of conserved wildlife habitat. Moose crossing were indicated as I passed the way but no sightings. Vermont is famous for its vivid colours in the Autumn.
Bennington was the first town in Vermont. It had some quaint buildings as I approached but the main street was showing more positive signs. Cars lined the roads near the various churches and both sides of the street had pieces of art depicting people in familiar poses. I could only catch a few of them as I moved up the main street.
Out of Bennington the 8 mile climb started, gradual at first but building into a crescendo of 9%. Luckily the weather stayed cool with some drops of rain falling for a period. I maintained a speed of 6 mph as I moved up. No point of trying to catch up to anyone or to keep ahead of someone. Into the zone and plough along in the groove. Actually, I was surprised when the levelling-off came just over 2000 feet; I was resigned to a few more miles. Plenty of lakes about and obviously holiday homes. This area is just 4 hours from New York and 2 hours from Boston by car.

Some of the shoulders were a bit awkward to deal with. The main carriageway had been resurfaced but the shoulder left to carry on. Normally, this wasn’t a problem until it cropped up on a busy descent.
Second SAG was in Wilmington a town with busy Sunday morning tourist traffic.
The final summit of the day came on Hogback Mountain (mile 60) with a reputed 100 mile view. With today’s overcast sky it was a lot less than that, but it was a refreshing change from the lowlands we have been accustomed for the last number of weeks. This is ski area during the winter months and is famous for its covered bridges.
The 12 mile descent to Brattleboro was worth all the climbing. At times it levelled out and a chance to view the scenery. At one cemetery I thought it had elements of the west of Ireland with the stone walls.
I arrived at the motel at 2 p.m. as the sky was beginning to darken. Within 2 hours the sky opened with a downpour and as I write there is a thunderstorm outside. Brattleboro is on the Connecticut River and has a population of just over 12,000. In a hilly state it is quite low (300 feet) and so is one of the warmest places in Vermont.

A day of cycling that didn’t turn out to be as bad as I was expecting. The overcast weather helped and hopefull the thunderstorm outside will have blown over by morning.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 49 of 54: JULY 19: LITTLE FALLS (NY) TO LATHAM (NY)

2008-07-19T19:39:00.008-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 77 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 08 mins
Average Speed: 15 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 2038 ft

Average Heart rate: 111 bpm

Distance so far: 3,663 miles

Ascent so far: 115,519 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 10

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today I cycled for my niece Deirdre and Diarmaid who got married today. I would have loved to be there but they were in my thoughts as I cycled along. Best wishes to you both as you set out on your joint life journey.

I was expecting stiff climbs today but they were quite gentle. Beautiful weather and an early finish.

PROVIDENCE [7] The cost of running Providence for a year at present (including paying the teachers) is € 9,000 ( $13,000 ) or € 190 ($ 280) per week. Relatively small sums when you consider the 200 children and the 7 teachers.

Loading at 7.30 with mixing of Gatorade and pumping of wheels. A mist hung over the Mohawk River as we took to the road and it was so pleasantly cool. Some rain had fallen during the night but no sign of any more pending. The sun was doing its best to break through the clouds and burn off the mist as we moved east along Route 5. We would be spending 50 miles on this before turning off to the right. I almost missed it.
The Trinidad group rode together today. Two more Cary and Winston joined Sarge in Erie for the final 8-day section to Portsmouth. So the number of internationals continues to grow.

The route followed the Mohawk down stream for the day, though we were not cycling along the very edge. It was like following the Suir from Clonmel down to Carrick, a number of fields between but you knew it was there. The Mohawk even at this stage would be the same width as the Suir when it comes to Waterford. Rail, road and canal move along this east/west valley.
Untill the first SAG the weather conditions were ideal, light sun, cool and fresh. Climbs were gentle with a low gradient. Soon afterwards we came to some familiar placenames again. Hetty and Piet (NL) obviously had to stop for a snap at the welcome sign for the City of Amsterdam. In fact the ‘city’ didn’t impress anyone. Very run-down the part of it that we saw. But hetty and Piet had more to come – Rotterdam was a little more presentable and with canals and barges they surely felt at home. A pretty town was St Johnsville (not St John’s Villas) with a fine display of flowers. It is the centre of New York state and claims to have the state’s best tasting drinking water. All was quiet as I passed through around 8.30. Didn’t expect much activity at that hour on Saturday morning.
All was quiet in Longhorn Trucking Co Inc on Saturday morning with half of their trucks lined up and resting for the weekend. Salt is one of the big commodities they move in preparation for the winter snows around here. Very many houses have small trucks with snow-ploughs fitted ready for the call to clear roads and drives.
The railroad ran beside the route along the valley. At one stage a large train overtook me on the right doing around 50 mph. I was cruising along the level terrain at 18 mph and I had travelled 1 mile for it to pass me completely. So, non-cycling mathematicians can work out the length of the train.
Much of today both before and after the 2nd SAG was on a dedicated bikepath. Shortly after Rotterdam we took a left and spent 4 miles with no traffic. Not many pedestrians or other cyclists on it so we could keep up to the 15 mph allowed. Plenty of growth on either side and at times brilliant open views of the river. It looked so peaceful and only rippled by the water-skiers out for a bit if activity.
While on the bikepath in Niskayuna I passed by the entrance of the headquarters of General Electric Global Research Centre. This complex of 525 acres overlooks the Mohawk River and has a workforce of 1900 covering all scientific disciplines working on innovations and breakthroughs. They have another such facility in Bangalore, India. Their motto “what we imagine, we can make happen.”. I like it.

Today Deirdre and Diarmaid were married and I would have been there. I missed the occasion and the celebration but made contact with Deirdre to wish them all the best. During the cycle I frequently thought of them and when I spotted a wedding party posing for photos in a park by the river I had to stop and savour some of the feeling. I’ll catch up on all the news of the day when I get home.
Students of Providence, you recognise these? The produce of Providence vocational skills is very much part of my luggage. Bags from the rexine and tailoring sections of Providence contain necessary elements of my kit. One for toiletries, one for medical, one for phone accessories and Garmin bits and one for all the camera cables and rechargers. They all remind me of the students in Providence as I go about my daily chores.

This evening after dinner I had welcome visitors in the Holiday Inn, Mary and Steve Muller. Mary’s folks hail from the Clonmel area and they live here in Troy. It was so nice to meet and have the chat.
The back wheel is problematic again. Had it worked on by Gerard last Tuesday and it seemed OK. But the wobble is back and seems to indicate that something has broken down inside. He reckons that it is unsafe to continue with and has given a loan of a rear wheel from the van until Portsmouth. Solution is to have the hub rebuilt or a new wheel. Tomorrow I’ll order a new one from Portsmouth and have it ready for the last two days.
So I arrived at the Motel in Latham at 1pm and rang Deirdre at Waterford Castle just in time before the wedding dinner commenced.

A great day’s cycle – I reckon it was my strongest and most consistent so far and I felt great when arriving here. I believe we have a few demanding days ahead as regards climbing. We’ll take that when it comes. No need to be in a rush. Good night’s sleep first.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 48 of 54: JULY 18: LIVERPOOL (NY) TO LITTLE FALLS (NY)

2008-07-18T15:15:00.017-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 79 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 08 mins
Average Speed: 15.3 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1740 ft

Average Heart rate: 110 bpm

Distance so far: 3586 miles

Ascent so far: 113,481 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 10

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:

Dedication: Today I cycled for Andreas, Bashisha, Albert and Daphi that they will make great progress while in Providence.

Today was another relatively short day with easy terrain and pleasant weather throughout.

Providence [6] The rationale of Providence is based on the vision of Edmund Rice who wanted to enable liberation through education when he founded the Christian Brothers in Waterford in 1802. The same need is still there but in a different location.

The big event in Syracuse over the weekend is the National Car Show in the New York State Fairgrounds and classic cars had been arriving all yesterday evening and cruising along 7th North just by the motel. Some owners stayed in Super 8 and their machines looked beautiful as we loaded this morning. Over 6,000 of them and more than 80,000 people are expected at the event.

It was 7.30 by the time we got away through the suburbs of Syracuse. Met a few impatient drivers cutting across in front but nothing that was too serious. A climb that registered 9% caught our attention within a mile of the start. Thankfully it didn’t last for too long.
In general today our route followed the course of the Erie Canal and downthe Mohawk River valley. Parts of the original Erie canal remain with the tow-path on the right-hand side. At one point a river passed under the course of the canal and the tow-path at right angles.
In 1918 the Barge Canal was an improved version of the Erie to accommodate larger barges with the competition from the railroads. Freight traffic on the canal reached a total of 5.2 million tons by 1951, before declining in the face of combined rail and truck competition. The vanquished Erie still runs quietly under it’s victor the Interstate.

A lot of today’s cycle was through residential areas though not heavily built-up. Quite clearly people were arriving at holiday homes for the weekend. Farms were of the small variety and producing for the local market

I have been fascinated by the various designs of post-boxes I have seen along the route. Most are of a uniform design; some are bought creativity and some are definitely one-offs with a personal touch.

So many houses fly the Stars and Stripes on the porch or on a flag-pole in the garden. (Also in cemeteries the national flag seems to be the only element of colour on every grave.) We tend to fly county flags near the house in the same manner especially during the championship season

No rain today and not a sound of thunder. As the day wore on the temperature continued to rise. At the finish it was 90 degrees with no wind and feeling very humid. Stopping at the SAG stops was uncomfortable (but welcome) and the only way to keep cool was to keep moving. Once moving it was quite pleasant.

There was very heavy traffic as we came towards Little Falls but it didn’t pose any threat once the cyclist abided by the normal traffic rules. Little Falls(pop 1500) is named after a local waterfall whereas Great Falls is further east where the Mohawk enters the Hudson River. There is a strong Irish element in surrounding area and a 3-day irish festival kicks off here next Friday. Irish entertainers (although I don’t regognise any on the list) and possibly Irish weather. Their publicity states that it will go ahead ‘rain or shine’. Tickets are $8 but if you attend the Irish Mass on Sunday you get in free.

I arrived at the Motel at 1 pm. it is a new member of the Knights Inn group but the original name is still up – Casey’s. The early arrival gives me a chance to catch up on things without burning the night oil. Plenty of sleep required now to ensure concentration over the last days.

An enjoyable day’s cycle but with no brilliant scenery. I suppose you can’t expect that every day.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 47 of 54: JULY 17: CANANDAIGUA (NY) TO LIVERPOOL (NY)

2008-07-17T19:35:00.010-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 79 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 30 mins
Average Speed: 14.4 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 2620 ft

Average Heart rate: 108 bpm

Distance so far: 3507 miles

Ascent so far: 111,777 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 10

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s cycle is for pupils in Providence including Jennifer, Metenol, Saibor and Hepsing and those who have progressed on over the years.
(On Saturday I’ll cycle for Deirdre and Diarmuid.)

Today was a recovery day after the many centuries of the last week. Eventful on the road and finished with some local flavour.

PROVIDENCE [5] Providence is not conducted on denominational grounds. It has children of many Christian and non-Christian faiths. But it does operate a strong spiritual ethos. Each morning assembly starts with a communal prayer said with great intensity and devotion.

At loading this morning our attention was attracted to some old autos parked in front of the hotel. A 1924 Model T Ford in perfect working order was being oiled and greased by its owner in preparation for his onward journey towards the Lakes. He has been driving this one for the last 20 years.
The early miles passed by in pleasant weather with no indication that it would change. Just some fluffy clouds as we kept cycling eastwards on Route 20. I gradually loosened out and warmed up to optimum performance around the 10 mile mark.
Another familiar name loomed ahead… Geneva. Geneva is at the northern end of Lake Seneca, one of the Finger Lakes. At this hour (8.30) there was little activity about except for a few ducks. At night a drum-like beating can be heard across the waters of Lake Seneca (the longest at 36 miles long). Science explains this as the escaping of natural gas deposits from beneath Seneca’s deep waters.
Since we have come into New York state I have noticed a large number of golf courses along the route. Scarcely any in the previous states of Illinois, Indiana and Ohio.
After the SAG stop thunder was to be heard behind us but it didn’t develop into anything that threatened. Rain did start to fall around mile 42 as we came into the town of Camillus. It wasn’t heavy but when cycling along it felt heavier than it was in actual fact. To soften the blow also, the rain was of the warm variety, not the cold harsh wintry type. Raingear was on for about 13 miles till it eased off. Passed by a gravel truck that had just gone off the road )on the other side) possibly as a result of the greasy surface. Road was blocked off to traffic but they let us through rather than heading off on the detour.
Last night a new tube went into the front wheel but a piece of radial wire shortened its life and it went down in a shot as I cornered into Devoe Road at mile 56. It didn’t take long to replace (Practice makes perfect). That brings my flat total now into double figures. The front tyre still has some thread on it, unlike the rear one I discarded this morning.
At one stage today we crossed over an original part of the Erie Canal. This original canal was commenced in 1815 and stretched 363 miles from Albany on the Hudson to Buffalo on Lake Erie. This meant there was a continuous navigable waterway from New Yory up the Hudson to the Great Lakes and beyond. It was 40 feet wide and 4 feet deep and contributed in making New York a major port and to the development of Buffalo on Lake Erie and the northern part of New York state. In 1918 it was replaced by the New York State Barge Canal and parts of the original were filled in to develop roads. Many Irish workers were involved in the construction of the original and settled in Syracuse, half way along the canal.

Our destination today was the village of Liverpool (pop 3,000) on the eastern edge of Syracuse. The area was originally settled by Irish canal workers and was referred to as ‘Little Ireland’. It was later (1830) named after the English city as it also had a salt industry and wished to capitalise.
Once in Syracuse, I followed my own directions to visit a spot of local interest … Tipperary Hill. Again the Irish populated this area particularly those from County Tipperary. Among the flags is the Blue and Gold but the area also has a unique piece of street furniture that is known far and wide…the Green on Top Traffic Signal.
When the city first started to install traffic signal lights in the 1920s they put one at a major intersection on Tipperary Hill, on the corner of Tompkins Street and Milton Avenue. Some Irish youths, incensed that anyone would dare to put the "British" red above the "Irish" green, broke the light mainly by throwing stones. The city replaced it but the Irish broke the replacement. After a few rounds of this the city decided that if they wanted a light at that intersection, they had better put the signal up with the green on top and remains that way to this day.
At the intersection stands a memorial park with a bronze sculpture of the Stonethrowers, a family group with the Dad pointing out the light to his children and explaining the significance. The various donors to the memorial have their names inscribed on the bricks of the pavement. Bertie Ahern paid a visit here two years ago with local Congressman Jim Walsh. Another piece of Tipperary along the route.
Just down the road from the lights is Coleman’s Irish pub with the owner (not there today) having roots in the Drombane area.
It was opened as a local workman’s pub in 1933 and has a special door for leprecauns so they can come and go as they like. They also keep a low table set for them in the upstairs parlor. Outside there are two phone boxes – a normal one and a tiny one for the fairy folk.
Across the road is the Cashel House that specialises in imported Irish goods –Waterford Glass, Beleek China etc. it was all an unexpected touch of home at the end of a day’s cycle.
I finally arrived at the Motel at 3 pm although I had passed the door to set out on my Tipperary quest two hours earlier.
A recovery day’s cycle with a pleasant ending. I really enjoyed it again. At Route Rap each evening now there are a few household items regarding the group’s final day in Portsmouth.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 46 of 54: JULY 16: HAMBURG (NY) TO CANANDAIGUA (NY)

2008-07-16T19:11:00.007-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 101 miles
Cycling time: 6 hrs 42 mins
Average Speed: 15 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 4062 ft

Average Heart rate: 117 bpm

Distance so far: 3428 miles

Ascent so far: 109,157 feet.
Centuries so far: 13
Punctures so far: 9

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s cycle was for the good-natured children in Providence who come in early, stay late and sometimes appear on Saturdays when they see that there is something to be done and for James S and Kenny.

A good day’s cycling with one century and despite two flats and two thunderstorms.

PROVIDENCE [4] In the early years the school had no special name. Then in 2006 the staff reflected on the rationale of the school to decide on a name that would be meaningful. The school then (and still) had no constant source of funds but they always trusted that something would turn up and it did. ‘If God means the school to run, it will run’. Trust in Providence. And so it came to be.

As the early stages of today’s route was involved and an amount of construction and since a lot of us were going to the museum we tended to stick together for the first 7 miles. The morning looked promising and it should be another pleasant day; only a slight risk of rain.
After 7 miles a good number of us paid a visit to Pedaling History, a museum devoted to the story of the bicycle in America. There we had a guided tour following the development from the velocipede to pedal power, the penny-farthing (the Odrinary here in the US), systems of drive and suspension that in time were used in the automobile. Hundreds of bicycles were on show . he pointed out the impact that the bicycle had on travel, the demand for better roads, on fashion, on womens emancipation and on the car all in the final years of the 19th century. In all I spent an hour there and noted a book of cycle tours around Ireland that I have never seen at home.
The first thunderstorm appeared ahead of us at the 20 mile mark. We had no rain but I pulled into a gas station to let it move further to the north-east. No point in riding straight into it. Succeeded in being fast enough to capture a bolt of lightning.
After the first SAG, Cary from Trinidad (who joined us for the last section of the trip) cycled with me and we kept up a brisk pace to the second SAG. The only things that halted us was to view what has become a frequent type of roadkill in New York and some punctures.
Cary had one and I picked up one a little later. We’re getting fast at replacing tubes now. The hard shoulder on Route 20 today had a lot of tiny pieces of glass. A lot of flats reported with Larry (CO) picking up a total of five. All along the way the usual agricultural pursuits as on previous days was evident. I liked the houses with their own vegetable gardens. I'm sure my own at home is thriving. If it is...great. if it's not .... ah, well.
Near the end of the route did the few extra miles to make it a century (the scheduled distance was 96 miles) and went down by Canandaigua Lake (pronounced CANON-DAY-GOO-A). There are about ten of these narrow lakes known as the Finger Lakes as they run south/north like the outstretched fingers of two hands. Canandaigua lake is 16 miles long and formed as the result of glacial activity and is very deep. On its shores are all the water-based activities. I passed by the end of the lake and just as I came to a large shopping mall the second thunderstorm broke. I was glad of the shelter in the porch of Lowe’s.

I finally arrived at the hotel at 4.30 still dry. Some of those who skipped the museum had got the brunt of the first storm and some of those coming in late got the second one. I was lucky.
Inspecting the rear tyre when I got the puncture I thought it was about time to replace it. Three and a half thousand miles was good service. It felt just like tissue paper in the centre and only the kelvar strip was keeping the tube protected. I had brought a spare Armadillo and it took no time to change. However, when I returned to the room after dinner the front wheel was flat. I did find a sharp stone embedded in the tyre and that has to be replaced before turning in tonight. Not much time to admire the view from my window.

Enjoyed today’s cycle. The route wasn’t very scenic and there was plenty of climbing to keep one on his toes. Should see more of the Finger lakes tomorrow.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 45 of 54: JULY 15: ERIE (PA) TO HAMBURG (NY)

2008-07-15T20:00:00.012-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 82 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 19 mins
Average Speed: 15.3 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1964 ft

Average Heart rate: 120 bpm

Distance so far: 3327 miles
Ascent so far: 105,095 feet.
Centuries so far: 12
Punctures so far: 7

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s cycle is for all the children in Providence including Barisha, Markor,Akas and Isaac who honoured us (Abbey students and teachers) by inviting us to their homes last Oct/Nov. Thank you kindly.

First day back in the saddle after our final Rest Day. Felt good. A short day after the run of centuries and a new state.

Providence[3] Most of the pupils walk long journeys to and from Providence each day in all kinds of weather (including monsoon) along roads and paths that are busy and far from pedestrian friendly. Often footwear is flimsy and when necessary towels and dry clothes are provided when they arrive.

At 7.30 am as Erie was well awake and on the move we cycled eastward along the southern shore of Lake Erie. Erie (pop 200,000) is in the industrial rust-belt but is now turning to tourism. It is twinned with Dungarvan – Molly Brannigan’s may have had something to do with that! It was good to be back in harness again for the final section – the Eastern States. But also a need for greater concentration. Would be tragic if something happened at this stage. Most mountain accidents happen on the way down. The trip is not finished at the summit but when back home safely. Weather was pleasant all day with a very slight headwind but the heat never became overpowering.
Still plenty of grapes growing on both sides of the road. Gary (CA) was throwing an expert eye on the crop and explaining the growing process. Tractors were out trimming the sides of the vines to allow the grapes to get the sunlight better. The vines were with us all day.
Again I started at my own pace but joined in with two different groups for periods of the day. Two more from Trinidad have joined us for this last section to Portsmouth. From the SAG till the end I pushed on at a good strong pace.
Punctures were a feature of the day again but, thankfully, I escaped. Actually, my front wheel was almost flat at loading time but it got a full 100 lbs pressure and was operational for the day. Perhaps the valve was just taking a Rest Day like myself and released a little pressure. John (LA) who joined us in Indianapolis had three flats before the SAG. I’ve heard of two others also, one had a nail through the tyre, the tube and the steel rim. If there’s any good place to have to replace a tube, it must be beside a field of grapes.
Although we cycled for the day along the southern edge of Lake Erie it wasn’t always in view. It was a field or two away or just appearing through the trees occasionally. To look at , it was like looking out from the east coast of Ireland. Nothing to be seen but the flat horizon. It is 50 miles wide just like Ireland to Wales. Today it was perfectly calm but in winter it freezes over when day temperatures scarcely exceed –15C. The fact that it is relatively shallow (average of 62 feet) contributes to this. In winter when the cold north winds blow over the warm waters it results in lake-effect snow in Buffalo and the south shore. In winter 2007/2008 this area had 3 metres of snow.
At twenty miles we came to the stateline with New York. Another state and very few left. All groups stopped for the compulsory photo and I was with a group of 6 at that stage. New York state is almost double the size of Ireland in size and is the largest producer of cabbage in the USA. These things are important to know. All except the greater New York City metropolitan area is referred to as Upstate and our route will be across the upper end of that roughly following the course of the Erie Canal.
One could get geographically confused with the names of places on the route or near the route. What part of the world are we in? Names like Dunkirk, Barcelona, Angola, Boston, Versailles, Hamburg and tomorrow there is a list of more familiar placenames. At Barcelona Harbour we had the opportunity to go down to a pier on the lakeshore. It looked so pleasant and peaceful. There were other signposts that caught my eye.

Along the road I saw so many premises offering duty-free cigarettes and gas. Gas at $3.99. I went into a gas station/truck stop to look for post-cards but the whole shop apart from the check-out was just cigarettes from floor to ceiling in cartons. And we were not exactly on the Canadian border. Afterwards I found out that this was an Indian reservation and duties are not charged there on the mentioned commodities. . That’s the place to stock up. For the last week I am finding it impossible to find postcards. In the early weeks every convenience store and gas station had a good selection. Tried in stores around the motel this evening with no luck (‘Maybe, you could try Niagara Falls’ it was suggested in one.) I asked at reception and no luck either. But just a while ago I found some pushed under my door from the motel reception. Nice.

I arrived at the motel at an early 2 pm in Hamburg. Hamburg is on the southern edge of Buffalo. Buffalo Wings i.e. chicken wings prepared with a vinegar based cayenne pepper sauce are so-called as they originated here in the Anchor Bar in 1964 as a quick mid-night snack. Buffalo thrived with the construction of the Erie Canal which linked the Hudson River with the Great lakes above the Niagara Falls.
After today’s cycle I noticed some play in the rear hub and was worried. At Mech Time (today from 5 till 6 when Gerard the mechanic is available for repairs etc) he whipped off the cassette and exposed the bearings in a flash. Sufficient grease all right but bearings are not seated perfectly. Also the evidence of quite an amount of moisture. More grease applied, reassembled and it’s sound as a rock just now. Wouldn’t want anything to go wrong with RW PACAT at this stage (or at any stage)
At Route rap this evening just before details of tomorrow’s route we had the presentation of prizes for July 4th decorations. 1st to Richard Walsh for an exquisite ensemble and he wore it all day. And I received my Faded Glory Tee-shirt. And don’t I look good in it!

A lovely day to be out cycling and both terrain and weather conditions were perfect. I enjoyed every minute of it.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Today: From another cyclist after the announcement of prizes “Well, there was always only going to be one winner there”

DAY 44 0F 54: JULY 14 : REST DAY: ERIE PA

2008-07-15T04:26:00.001-06:00

Providence [2] Each morning (8.30 till 11.00) the pupils in Providence follow a course in one of the vocational skills offered such as tailoring, rexine work, commercial cooking, confectionary, beauty care, paper making, screen printing, bead work, carpentry etc etc. These are presented not merely as hobbies but a possible avenue to apprenticeships or enterprises. In the afternoon (11.00 till 3.300 they follow regular classes in academic subjects such as English,Maths, Business, Science, Social Studies, Khasi etc and some of the sit for the State exams.

Today was a welcome rest day with no pressure but for me it was all cycle related at leisure. Some of the group actually went for a 30-mile cycle around the city’s attractions. At 6 am I was awake and ready to get started out of habit. The longer I stayed in bed after that the more tired I got, so I made breakfast by 9.

The hotel has no guest laundry so it was off down 5 blocks with the lot and all was sparkling again within the hour. I’m improving in these household chores…never too late to learn. The laundrette was beside Molly Brannigan’s irish pub and I went down there last night for the one drink I treat myself to on Rest Day. The owner is a Waterford man and the walls were decorated by the feats of recent years and of 1959, Ballygunner’s Munster title as well as Master McGrath and old local papers. Wasn’t I proud to see the victorious Wexford team of 1996 on the wall in full colour? A publican with good taste!
The bike, RW PACAT, badly needed a wash after the last few days and I replaced the chain. The old one was showing a bit of wear and would cause a more serious problem for the crankset and the cassette if left much longer. Am very pleased with this bike and hopefully there’ll be no problems between here and the end. End? I don’t like even contemplating the idea. I’ll miss the cycle and the group. There is an amazing positive dynamic among the 40 of us. One for all and all for one.
In the afternoon I spent a long time deciding on and drawing up a cue-sheet for the two days from Portsmouth to Providence. Got it finished a while ago with the aid of cycle maps of east Massachusetts and the Boston area.
And I have just been speaking with Ted in Providence who will be overseeing those last days. Really looking forward to meeting up and having a good chat about Providence.
Now for a good night’s sleep before the last stage –the Eastern States.

DAY 43 of 54: JULY 13: NILES (OH) TO ERIE (PA)

2008-07-13T20:11:00.008-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 101 miles
Cycling time: 6 hrs 26 mins
Average Speed: 15.6 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 2014 feet

Average Heart rate: 116 bpm

Distance so far: 3245 miles

Ascent so far: 103,131 feet.
Centuries so far: 12
Punctures so far: 7

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s cycle is for the children of Providence including Alfred, Chrisdalin and Lapynshai,who even in the heavy rains arrive in to school with a cheerful ‘Good morning, teacher’

Today’s cycle was different in that it was raining for 50 miles of it. I have got used to the sunshine so this was a reminder of what awaits me when I return home. Acclimatising. But, the sun broke through and began to shine at a particular memorable moment. And another state.

PROVIDENCE [1]: When the Abbey first established contact with Shillong in 1999, Providence (then without a name) consisted of 20 children receiving instruction in basic A,B,C and 1,2,3 by students of Class 10 from St Edmund’s School for an hour each evening. Now in 2008 Providence has over 200 children and 7 qualified committed teachers and operates from 8.30 am till 3.30 pm. each day.

When I first spoke to others regarding this cycle in Sept 2007 I had the dream that it could attract a six-figure sum for Providence. At times since then my expectations have wavered but the dream still remains. My big thanks to those who committed even before a pedal was turned in San Francisco. They believed that I was really serious about this challenge. Hopefully, more will come on board to ensure that Providence continues to give these children a chance in life.

I reported last night that there was torrential rain in Niles and this morning the rain had stopped but the forecast was a gloomy one with 80% chance of thunderstorms. Everyone set off just in cycling shirts but with raingear at hand. Drops fell in the early stages but at mile 20 there was no option but to don the rain-cover.

It poured down incessantly for the next 50 miles but without the lightning. Be merciful for small mercies. Pulling out of the first SAG while it still poured down knowing that there was another 64 miles to go wasn’t appealing. Consolation in that you can get soaked only once.
Pulling into the second SAG at 70 miles things had eased off and all removed the raingear. The stop at the already crowded Richardson’s Rootbeer Stand and did some extra business. It was here that I phoned home to get the result of the Munster Final to be told that it had just finished with success for Tipp. Just about then, the sun broke through and gave the necessary heat to dry out our shirts as we continued on for the rest of the day. So good results do contribute to beneficial global warming. I relaxed feeling very happy. Sorry to hear that the minors lost.
As for the last few days I cycled alone to the first SAG but there was little opportunity to take photos with the rain. Suburban Niles was quiet at that hour of Sunday morning as I moved generally north-west assisted by a south south west wind. Between the SAGs I fell in with John, Amy and John Douglas and kept up a brisk pace for the forty miles. After the second SAG I cycled alone again as I wanted to capture something of the area on film.
In the early part I did spot a familiar store that has cropped up a few times along the route. Wonder what specials they have this week?

Shortly after second SAG I arrived at the state line with Pennsylvania and a photo opportunity. Luckily Audrey was coming close behind and we accommodated each other. Another state finished along the journey; we’re now in state 10. Pennsylvania is 1.5 times the size of Ireland and has a population of 12 million. It's often referred to as the Keystone State or the Quaker State. Its capital is not Philadelphia or Pitsburg but Harrisburg. It is amongst the top states for mushrooms, Christmas trees, battery chickens, milk, grapes and horses.

Corn storage silos have been along our route for ages with some of steel and some of pre-cast concrete. The invention of the corn silo allows the preservation of corn in the green state for feeding to livestock.Today I spotted one of solid blocks. Didn’t see too many of those before. Still seemed to be in excellent condition.
Some lovely houses along the road with most on open plan… no boundary fences or gates and very large heavy-maintenance lawns. Others (like the farmers place above) stood out with the picket fence about. One cyclist mentioned that they looked very Irish. I don’t know!
Coming into Erie had some echoes of California. We had not seen as many cyclists on the roads since early June on the west coast. It seems to be a popular pastime for young and old here. And cycle paths and bike lanes also. Also quite an amount of vines (and sour cherries) were being cultivated along our approach to Erie although the grapes are still quite small.

By 3.15 I had arrived at the Avalon Hotel right in the heart of Erie and noticed the Irish flag flying. Reception told me that they have quite a few Irish visitors staying here from time to time. I thought that it was just for me! Again I had made a century of the scheduled 97 miles. That’s 4 centuries now back to back.
Tomorrow is our last Rest Day and I am looking forward to it. I will have to concentrate on finalising my route from Portsmouth NH down to Providence RI. Might get an opportunity to go down to the shore of Lake Erie.

First day in the rain but can’t complain. Quite satisfied with the 4 centuries. Enjoyed cycling alone (as I do most Sundays) and all keyed up now for the last section starting on Tuesday morning.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 42 of 54: JULY 12: WOOSTER (OH) TO NILES (OH)

2008-07-12T19:04:00.006-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 102 miles
Cycling time: 7 hrs 07 mins
Average Speed: 14.3 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 4170 ft

Average Heart rate: 114 bpm

Distance so far: 3144 miles
Ascent so far: 101,117 ft.
Centuries so far: 11
Punctures so far: 7
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: To day is for the children of Providence like Ritimai, Brisila, and Shalam who will benefit from the effort put into this cycle.

Another century today on roads that seemed friendlier as far as hills were concerned but surface was deplorable in places. And we passed an important ‘milestone’ in terms of climbing.
Today I used the same procedure as yesterday – cycle the first 10 miles at my own pace in order to warm up and then pick up the pace for the rest. Directly out of Wooster there were a few stiff hills and plenty passed me by. I didn’t mind nor did I try to stay in contact.
Just before I left Wooster I passed the Wayne County Veterans Memorial in the local cemetery.

At the 8 mile mark I met up with a few friendly horses in a field by a farmyard. They seemed to like being photographed and gave me a bit of advice.
Listen here you! Look at me between the two eyes and understand this. Keep up the pedalling and those children in Providence will be the better for it. They deserve the best there is, and that’s straight from the horse’s mouth.
While I was there a number of cyclists passed by, eager to put miles behind them. The sun was still only a little above the horizon and facing directly into our eyes as usual.
You see those other cyclists tearing off down the road? Don’t worry. You’ll catch up to them in no time at all. Just hang in there, man.

Yesterday I stated that there was no hope of getting the smell of burning turf around Ohio. Maybe, I was being a bit too rash. This morning I spot this sign for Peat Moss. If there’s Peat Moss, there’s peat. I didn’t smell smoke but the odds shorten. Every day new experiences and surprises.
Crossing railroads can be dangerous for a number of reasons. On these country roads they stick above the level of the road and the timber and can be the cause of a puncture or a damaged rim. Their location are all indicated on the daily cue-sheet. At times the railroads cross the road at an acute angle and there is always the danger of jamming the wheel down beside the track. It happened to three riders one day at the same crossing and one cracked his helmet. No other serious injuries. Only solution is to manoeuvre to cross them at right angles. Haven’t seen any of the 100 carriage long trains recently.
Passing through canal Fulton on one of the Ohio and Erie canals there were signs that there was a celebration or a festival in the offing. The main street was cordoned off, stalls set up for the day and the usual lorry for a bandstand. I was told that they were in the middle of a three day Olde Canal Days Festival, an annual affair. There would be music and vendors on the streets; fireworks at 10 pm and of course Miss Olde Canal Days Queen.
Further up the town the locals had their seats and rugs out to book their spots for the Grande Parade that would commence at 11 am. It was still before 9 am and waiting was not an option.
Today I passed by Stoll Farms an enormous dairying operation. Here they milk 3000 cows and in all there are about 5000 animals between milkers, dry, heifers and calves. A lot of the workforce is Mexican and feed was being delivered by the truckload as I passed by on Coal Bank Road. Also further on I passed a large area devoted to market gardening alone – mighty fields of red lettuce on my right hand side.
Gary and I teamed up again at the first SAG stop after 40 miles and set off at a good pace now that I was warmed up. On the level we were usually hitting 20 mph and down to 13 mph on the inclines. Passed by gravel pits, airports and lakes. The route seemed flatter than yesterday although my Garmin recorded almost 100 feet more climbing today. None of yesterday’s rolling hills. Today it was all more gradual.
We are moving in a north-east direction these days and todays wind was helpful for the most part. Coming into Niles we moved onto a bike path for 4 miles. We had it to ourselves with no traffic of any type and only the cross-roads to contend with. These are so relaxing. We haven’t been on one since leaving Grand Junction in Colorado. Near the end of this path Gary and I parted as I was on a mission.
Today’s scheduled ride was 93 miles; we had a detour near canton that brought the figure to 95 miles. Still feeling fresh I went for the century. Pity not to do it when it was so close. So I went to the end of the trail and a bit of a circle and by the time I reached the hotel I had 102 up on the clock. That is my 11th century on this trip.
Another fact that figured today was that we have pushed over the 100,000 feet climbed since we left San Francisco. It’s incredible!

Another enjoyable day in the saddle. A very satisfying day and all joints are back to normal. Only one other place could compare - to be in the Gaelic Grounds tomorrow for the Munster Final. Ah well!
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

NB: I feel very much at home as I write this. It’s pouring rain outside and lashing against the window. Hope it’s all gone by morning.

Thanks to all for your messages of encouragement. Keep them coming to keep me going for the final stage.
Eddie: Heart-rate is up but so also is speed. Took it easy for June but stretching the legs now without overdoing it.
Jaap: Never been to Haarlem. But thanks for the input.

DAY 41 of 54: JULY 11: MARYSVILLE (OH) TO WOOSTER (OH)

2008-07-11T19:03:00.011-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 103 miles
Cycling time: 6 hrs 52 mins
Average Speed: 15 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 4047 ft

Average Heart rate: 114 bpm

Distance so far: 3042 miles

Ascent so far: 96,947 ft.
Centuries so far: 10
Punctures so far: 7
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s cycle was for the new teachers in Providence that I have not met yet. I look forward to anyone so committed to the benefit of the children of that life-centre like Suklang, Brij and Sibron.

A tough century today with hills thrown in for good measure. Crossing the 3000 mile mark and knee recovery.

Yesterday’s century didn’t do the knee any harm. Afterwards plenty of ice applied and continued with the Brufen. At alarm time this morning the knee felt much looser than yesterday and not as uncomfortable. But still I decided to be cautious and to take the first 10 miles handy enough at my own pace till the system warmed up. No pressure on hills and let the others pass on. As the day went on the knee felt better and this evening I feel it’s 90% normal. First thing tomorrow morning is the time to decide that. I reckon that a 100 mile cycle is the cure for all ills –can’t sleep, inflamed knees, taken on too many calories at dinner etc, etc
So after loading at 7 am, I moved out onto Route 36 and faced into the rising sun, our usual position. The first mile out of Marysville was very busy with not much of a hard shoulder. Needed to keep your wits about you. Soon enough I was alone and moving along at a leisurely 13 mph or so. I didn’t even watch the speed; it was my knee that dictated how I rode. Looking at maps of Marysville I noticed a Dublin 17 miles south of the town. Now, that was too much of a detour (17 miles there and back). I did check it out and it was named after the capital by one of its founders, John Shields of Dublin, Ireland. Its grater city area has a population of 55,000 and boasts of its Irish links in its literature with plenty of green and shamrocks. Eric Clapton has a house there and golf is a major activity as Dublin is a stop on golf’s PGA Tour.
The early miles were flat enough with plenty of family farms again. Some of the roads could have been anywhere in Ireland (except for the sunshine). It was lovely to get the smell of freshly mown hay into the lungs while the air was still cool as I cycled along. The other smell I love to get on a cycle is the smell of the smoke from a turf fire. Not much chance of getting that here. But, never say never.
Often as I cycle along I think of my own mother and father (gone to their reward 15 and 30 years ago) and wonder what they think of their son cycling across the USA. Possibly would say he is a bit crazy or probably smile and say ‘Well, fair play to you’. Was never an option for them in their day. It was on my mother's bike that I did my first ‘long-distance’ cycling – out to pick strawberries in Kelly’s of Brittas on Bree Hill

Navigation consisted of two pages today again. At one stage I was faced with a dilemma – ROAD CLOSED, BRIDGE OUT. Nothing had been mentioned regarding this at Route Rap last night. Should I go on and chance getting a bike across or go for a detour. I chose the former and was pleased to see that only portion of the bridge had collapsed into the river. No danger for a bike to go across. If I had taken a detour, I could be out there still. By this stage the knee was fully operational and I was moving along at a good speed. Had passed out some of those who passed me out earlier.
First SAG was at a closed-up store at mile 33 and there Gary and I joined up for the rest of the trip as yesterday. Our expectations for the day are the same and our paces compliment each other. Gary is stronger on the sharp hills but I reclaim it on the level. We moved along sharing the front position taking the brunt of the air resistance. Any wind that was there today was in our favour.

Just before the town of Butler I passed another landmark – 3000 miles covered since San Francisco and still going strong, thank God. Despite reminding myself many times this morning to borrow chalk from the SAG wagon I arrived at the spot after 61 miles today empty-handed. Nothing for it but improvise, so we used stones and sand from a driveway nearby to indicate the spot. 3000 done and 1000 more to do over the next 13 days. I have 10 centuries done so far which accounts for 1000+ miles. No more centuries scheduled but some in the high 90’s that might be converted.

Two activities I spotted today that were a little unexpected. Just at the far side of Butler I spotted a signpost for a ski-area. Didn’t expect that in Ohio. But Clear Fork is a ski and snowboarding resort with 9 slopes at a max altitude of 2400 feet just 4 miles off our route. After a lapse of many days pumping jacks appeared in the fields again with the attendant oil tanks. They weren’t as big or as active as those further west but again I didn’t expect them.

Something else that I thought we had left well behind in Missouri and Western Illinois came back to haunt us with vengeance…rolling hills. We had a few baby ones around half way and the big baddies nearer the end. Some of them read as much as16 degrees gradient. Most of them were in double figures. Nothing for it but to grind away slowly and expect another one at the far side. To put rolling hills into context; it's like cycling up Kilfeacle Hill and down the far side and then do it again and again and again.
Heat was no problem today as long as we were moving. But on the hills when movement was slower the heat just added to the task. Even the cattle were forced to take to the water to keep cool. Two water bottles just about kept us going between the SAG stops. In the motel lobby afterwards all agreed that this century was so different and more difficult than yesterday…over 4000 feet in climbing with 103 miles in distance.

Just south of Wooster is the largest Amish community in the world. We met them before in Jamesport, Missouri. I didn’t see much evidence today except for the odd buggy for sale in front of a farm-yard. The rationale behind their avoidance of modern technical ‘necessities’ is that they do so to avoid the things that they feel will tear the family apart –either physically or morally. Car transport and telephones in the home allow family members to be separated. Businesses here in Wooster cater for their requirements such as tools not dependent on electricity. Their clothes and their furniture are plain in the extreme but abundant planting and flowers surround many Amish homes.
We arrived at our motel here in Wooster at 3 pm as the heat was at its highest. A tub of Ben and Jerry’s from the gas station across the road really hit the spot.
Wooster has a population of 30,000 and is a centre of education. Wooster College and Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Centre has given Wooster the claim that it has more PhD’s per capita than anywhere else in the state.

Another century with plenty of climbing and including the 3000 mile mark. The fact that the knee (not to be mentioned again, hopefully) coped well was a further source of satisfaction. A good day.
Thank God for the health and thank god for the energy.

Heard Today: From one of our American cyclists passing by “ Bet all this greenery reminds you of home” I agreed but wished we could have a share of the sunshine also.

DAY 40 of 54: JULY 10: RICHMOND (IN) TO MARYSVILLE (OH)

2008-07-10T19:05:00.006-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 106 miles
Cycling time: 6 hrs 59 mins
Average Speed: 15.1 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 2428 ft

Average Heart rate: 119 bpm

Distance so far: 2939 miles

Ascent so far: 92,900 ft.
Centuries so far: 9
Punctures so far: 7
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s century is for Felicia, Bantei and Shimbor and all the children in Providence who are so eager to learn and pleasant to deal with.

A special day today – another century and another state. Beautiful weather without the humidity of yesterday but worrying at the start.

After yesterday’s cycle into Richmond I sensed that my left knee wasn’t just right. Perhaps I had knocked it of strained it too much when the I felt the paceline slipping away. I applied ice and took some Brufen to reduce the inflammation but the night was uncomfortable. This morning when the alarm sounded it seemed too stiff and if I were at home I wouldn’t have gone out cycling. But in this situation it is different. For me, opting out is not an option. I spent a while massaging it and stretching it before breakfast and even up and down the stairs loosened it out. By loading time I felt more upbeat about the day. I told the other three I have been cycling with lately that I would go off on my own at first and spend the first six or seven miles warming up and loosening out the knee. We might team up later but I intended taking it easy on any hills and not to strain. As it turned out the knee was grand for the day and I intend using the same approach tomorrow again. Remember there is another fortnight to go still.

Within three miles of leaving the motel the Ohio stateline appeared ahead. The road was narrow but everyone as they approached had to have a photo. This is our ninth state of this trans-continental adventure. It is the 7th most populous state and often referred to as the Buckeye State after the buckeye tree. Stangely enough the state motto is ‘With God all things are possible’. It was that same excerpt from St Matthew’s Gospel that I came across in a Christian Bookshop in Shillong in 1999 that confirmed to me to actually bring Abbey students there. Is ait an mac an saol.(Life is strange) it will take us three days to cross this state.
Todays route for the most part is a designated bicycle route - Cardinal Trail Bicycle Route. It was so pleasant and quiet till we actually came within 2 miles of Marysville. Plenty of trees offering some shadow. Smaller farmyards than before showing some early morning activity with the associated smells. Felt homely. The timber frame dwelling houses surrounded by the barns and corn silo and all so tidy and well presented.

Yesterday I thought that I had nearly seen the end of corn. Not so, but it is in smaller fields. Today’s route was quite fragmented with many turns and often it meant cycling zig-zag through corn fields. The corn is quite developed here in comparison to further west but still showing no sign of a cob. Plenty of moisture in the ground and in places the remains of recent deluges were visible. Today I came across a number of good sized rivers that were crystal clear and so inviting in the heat – that’s a change from the silt-laden ones we’ve been seeing since Missouri. Still plenty of soya but at an early stage. Possible to confuse it with strawberry plants at this stage. With the south west breeze we got the full benefit of this spraying operation as we passed by.

CUESHEET
Today’s cue-sheet contained two pages of turns and directions. It helps better than any map especially when all the roads are named at each junction. Cycling on my own, it didn’t present any problem. On your own you tend to concentrate more than when in a group. Three lines from a cue-sheet looks like this:
Read as: 6.1 miles after the previous point, when the computer reads 103.1 miles, turn left into Maple Street at the STOP sign. Continue for 0.4 of a mile till the computer reads 103.5 miles and then turn right onto Fifth Street at the T-junction. After 1.5 miles on this street and when the computer reads 105 miles go straight through onto Hanna Road at the traffic lights.
An accurate cyclocomputer is a must to follow the sheet. These sheets and some extra route-relevant information are given out given each evening at Route Rap generally at 5 pm just before we go for dinner.

At the first SAG stop (41.2 miles) Gary decided to come with me for the rest of the trip and we moved along at a fine steady pace for the next 64 miles. The second SAG was at a cemetery again. I noticed 5 graves of Russell’s just inside the railing. The day was really heating up at this stage and the only way to combat it was to keep moving i.e create your own air-conditioning. I had consumed two bottles of water between the SAGs.

Traffic was heavy as we rode into Marysville and our motel was on the far end of town. Marysville has a population of 16,000 and is the headquarters of Miracle-Grow that is used for lawns and gardens. On the way in we passed by a major Nestle research centre located here and the smell of roasting coffee was uplifting.

Gary and I arrived at the motel at 3 pm and really appreciated the fruit salads the staff had waiting for us. We had completed the 106 miles in just under 7 hours cycling. Not a bad day’s work.
A day that turned out better than I had imagined at the start. Under no pressure out there and looking forward to another century tomorrow. Hope this knee subsides overnight.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Today: ‘Mathematics teachers …. the ones that really count’.

DAY 39 of 54: JULY 9: INDIANAPOLIS (IN) TO RICHMOND (IN)

2008-07-09T18:31:00.008-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 74 miles
Cycling time: 4 hrs 11 mins
Average Speed: 17.6 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1543 ft

Average Heart rate: 122 bpm

Distance so far: 2833 miles

Ascent so far: 90,472 ft.
Centuries so far: 8
Punctures so far: 7
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s cycle is dedicated to two people I have never met but who have been of great assistance in doing this cycle for Providence…. Andrew Perry and Ted Wetherill.(cf below) Thank you. Here’s 74 miles just for you.

A tailwind and generally level terrain made for a fast satisfying ride today and prepares us for two big ones to come. Another bit of investigation to be done on a familiar named place.

Last night about 9 pm we had a very heavy lightning and thunderstorm in Indianapolis and some were caught out in it as they returned from dinner. I was glad to be in and only had to put up with the awful rattling of rain on the window. It had been well forecast. Surely it wouldn’t last all night and destroy today’s cycle!
Loading was conducted in the carpark at the rear of the hotel under dry but a very overcast sky. Wind was blowing and raingear was packed just in case. The atmosphere was very heavy ( or ‘high humidity’ here) and we knew perspiration would flow today although the sunshine never did become very strong.
Since our motel was in a central position, our early miles was straight through the centre of Indianapolis. Traffic was beginning to build up as we cycled from Maryland onto Washington and headed East. Washington turned into Route 40 and that led us directly to our motel in Richmond. Navigation was direct on that long stretch. Motorists in the city and all along the route are as friendly as you could ask for once we abide by the rules and are predictable and visible.
After 10 miles while we were on a slight detour around road construction Gary picked up his first flat of the day. Found the hole in the tube but could locate no offending object in the tyre despite close inspection. If it was a nail, the telephone pole beside us had a trophy cabinet of them. Apparently a popular spot for notices.
Any ascent or descent today was gradual and it was possible to maintain speed even on the uphill. We maintained a single paceline of four with Deb leading us out and tipped along at 20 to 24 mph. At one stage another group of 6 fell in behind and an impressive peleton swiftly ghosted across Indiana. All was progressing nicely till Gary had a relapse at the 20 mile mark. Another flat with the hole in the tube at the same spot. More microscopic inspection. The tiniest piece of stone ever was found embedded in the tyre. Apparently it was only when the tube was at 100 psi did the culprit do its damage. Another tube and it lasted for the day. From there on the four of us resumed and regained our previous speed.
SAG at the town of Dunreith at mile 40 meant we were well over the half-way point. A chance to refuel and swap the incidents of the morning so far. It was still only 9.30 am. This SAG was at a Post Office – a change from cemeteries. Another 34 miles and the day’s work would be done.

We cycled along Route 40 for the day. U.S. Route 40 is an east-west United States Highway. As with most routes whose numbers end in a zero, US 40 once traversed the entire United States. It is one of the original 1920s U.S. Highways, and it originally ran for 3022 miles from Atlantic City, New Jerseyto San Francisco, California. The route as marked on the map is not unlike our route as far as Pennsylvania as it displayed on my Providence shirt. Route 40 is still a designated highway (Route 66 lost its official designation in 1985) but now terminates as Route 40 at Park City, Utah.There were small towns every 10 miles or so (like Knightstown above) with services and some very old motels are still on the route. I spotted one – The Shamrock Motel. Didn’t look tremendously appealing at this stage.

Crops are becoming a little more varied. Corn is still there but not with blanket coverage. Plenty of trees on both sides and these small towns present a great display of flowers. I’ll check out tomorrow if this trend continues as we move on eastwards or is it just a local phenomenon.
Newspapers here are covering the effects of the economic downturn and the rise in gas prices. Petrol is now at $4.20 a gallon and TV ads are concentrating on offering cars that give 35 mpg as opposed to the 4X4 gas guzzlers. According to this morning’s front page headlines, gym memberships and the demand for plastic surgery have taken a dip.
After 52 miles I took time out to do a spot of investigation as we all arrived into the city of Dublin (population 700). I just had to spend some time here and see if there was a connection. No need for a detour as in the case of Tipperary, Missouri.
The first shop I encountered was McCarthy’s Mart with big green shamrocks in the window. I reckoned that I had hit mother lode. Unfortunately the people of the house were away in Oregon and the lady minding shop wasn’t local and knew nothing. There was no Information Office or Chamber of Commerce. There weren’t too many premises in business in which to enquire. I hadn’t too much time to spend here. The Post Office seemed a good bet. It usually is. The postmistress wasn’t local either but had always heard that the town had no connection with Dublin, Ireland. She had it that in the days before roads had all-weather surfaces, that this area was a perennial mud-hole on the road. The pioneers had to use two teams of horses to pull the covered-wagons through this particular part i.e. doubling-up and hence the name. Was a bit disappointed.
But it was a nice tidy town with the roadsides having been beautified and footpaths re-paved. A number of nurseries about and potted plants on sale. It was quiet and its many antique shops were still closed. So I continued for the last 20 miles on my own still keeping up a good pace.

In the dedication for today I mentioned two people who have been of great assistance. Andrew Perry (UK) did this cycle last year and I contacted him by e-mail as to what I could expect and any suggestion he would make based on his experience. My 6 line e-mail received two A4 pages of a response the very next morning. I knew he was passionate about this cycle. He encouraged me but was realistic. There would be down days. Keep a rein on expectations…it’s a long haul for body and bike. He stressed the need to take Multi-vitamins and Vitamin C considering that the body is burning in excess of 5,000 calories per day. Can’t drain the well completely in those early days. Thank you Andrew.
Ted Wetherill is from Providence, Rhode Island and has spent some time assisting in Providence, Shillong. He has been in constant touch by e-mail and of great assistance in suggesting a route from Portsmouth to Providence and he is co-ordinating those final days. I will finally meet him for the first time then. Thank you, Ted.
As our motel is on the east side of Richmond, the last few miles went through the centre of town. Its population is 40,000 and has had a strong music tradition especially jazz. Louis Armstrong recorded his first solo here in the Starr-Gennett Studios as did Hoagy Carmichael, Tommy Dorsey, Duke Ellington, Glen Millar and others. Richmond has a Glen Millar Park (194 acres) but is not connected with the band leader. Colonel John Millar was the original owner of the land and ‘Glen’ came from the topography of the area.Wilbur Wright, co-inventor of the airplane with his brother, Orville, attended school in Richmond, Indiana.

I finally arrived at the motel at 1.15 pm after another satisfying day.
I enjoyed the cycling in the group of four and also on my own. Being on my own affords the opportunity to investigate and to stop for interesting photos. It’s nice to do it now and again. There’s another century on the menu tomorrow and also on Friday. Need plenty of sleep and hydration tonight.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 38 of 54: JULY 8: CRAWSFORDSVILLE (IN) TO INDIANAPOLIS (IN)

2008-07-08T19:47:00.011-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 62 miles
Cycling time: 3 hrs 56 mins
Average Speed: 16 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1111 ft

Average Heart rate: 121 bpm

Distance so far: 2759 miles

Ascent so far: 88,929 ft.
Centuries so far: 8
Punctures so far: 7
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today’s cycle is for the complete team at Providence – teachers, children including Ritina, Shanky, Banri ,Mutok and Wanindus and students and teachers from Ireland.

The train is back on the tracks. Yesterday afternoon as it turned out a good number of the cyclists waited and waited an succeeded in completing the 62 miles from Crawfordsville to Indianapolis. As evening went on I felt more and more disappointed in myself in that I had not held out. But I had made the decision in good faith and in the interests of safety.
After dinner a cyclist approached me and enquired if I would be interested in doing the cycle today and that there was a chance of a van lift back to Crawfordsville and that the forecast was favourable. I jumped at the opportunity and kept my fingers crossed that the lift would materialise. The staff here at the Staybridge Suites could not have been more helpful. Finally arrangements were in place for the transfer back to Crawfordsville for 4 of us in order to recapture the lost day. There could not have been a happier man going to bed last night. The train was definitely back on the tracks. I would have hated to miss out on a day. The children of Providence deserve better. Above all, I don’t want to let them down. So George (CO), Larry (CO), Rick (VA) and self were set for breakfast at 6 am and loading at 7 am.
PS The ‘puncture’ that I thought I had when the bike arrived yesterday turned out to be a valve that was’nt tightened properly. So, it doesn’t technically count as a puncture. So, still at 7.
,
At 7 am we loaded the bikes onto the van (not the usual loading) and clambered into the back for the hour’s transfer back to Crawfordsville. Seating for three of us was on the floor but the prospect of recapturing the lost day made nothing of the discomfort.
We moved westwards while the morning was still dry though dark. Radar pictures on the TV were favourable and a West or South West wind was predicted. Within an hour we were back at the hotel in Crawfordsville to pick up where we left off. $20 each was all the transfer cost us

The weather was favourable with a light ind coming in over our shoulder. At least we were not heading into a gale. We set out from Holiday Inn on N Lafayette Road at 8 am and settled into a steady pace. The other three were stronger riders than I but stated that they would keep the pace easy. I normally take about 10 miles to warm up but they were quicker off the mark. Within 2 miles as we moved up an incline into downtown Crawfordsville I reckoned that I’d only be able for about half of the route at this pace. But they nursed me through; I wasn’t ambling along at a snails pace. On the level we moved at 17 or 18 mph. Not a bad rate of progress. Gradually I settled in.
After 14 miles the Welcome sign caught my eye…New Ross. It was a small place with a population of 329 and a large grain facility. It was still early with very few about and I didn’t stop to make further enquiries. It was established in 1836 (before a lot of the Irish came) so it may have no connection with Wexford. Officially 6% of the popu;ation claim Irish ancestry.

Most of today’s route was on Rt 136 but occasionally it moved onto quieter roads. Corn was still the predominant crop on either side. We were conscious of the possibility of thunderstorms coming at us from the rear so constant progress was important. Roadworks were present but with a bike there as no need to make long detours. A pleasant request and we could circumvrnt the obstruction on foot. We were keeping within our target.
After 42 miles our route took us straight into Eagle Creek Park. Uncharacteristically we were ripped off here with an entrance fee of $5 to cycle through 2.75 miles of the park. The roads were nice and quiet but you’d need to be spending the day here to justify that fee

Before we came into Indianapolis we turned down Georgetown Road to the Speedway (or the Brickyard as it is also referred to as). The Indianapolis Speedway covers an enormous area. We cycled almost a mile behind the stands to come to the visitors entrance. It has a capacity for 250,000 seated around the outside of the track on permanent seating and the total (outfield and infield) is 400,000. The track is what might be described as a ‘rectangular oval’ 2.5 miles in length with banking of 9 degrees at the corners. As is pointed out in the museum, the infield area could accommodate Vatican City, the Coliseum, Wimbledon, Yankee Stadium, the Rose Bowl and Churchill Downs Racetrack all at once. It is the home of the Indy 500, the Indianapolis 500 Mile Race, the largest single-day sporting event in the world. There was a queue at the entrance so we reckoned that it would be better to move on. The outside itself told a story and indicated the dimensions.

Our next port of call along the route was the Major Taylor Velodrome. A banked cycling track opened in 1982 and named in honour of ‘Major’ Taylor, the first black World Champion at any sport in 1899. A native of Indiana, tracks banned him, other cyclists refused to compete against him and he was forced to perform abroad. Teams ere practicing as we arrived there and after our warm-up of 56 miles, we didn’t want to embarrass them!
At this stage we were in the greater Indianapolis area. It is the capital of Indiana with a population of almost 2 million. It hosts a lot of sporting events and from this motel room three major sporting arenas are to be seen – Lucs Oil Stadium, RCA dome and the Victory Field. We came into the central part along the White River Parkway and then the White River Trail which passes by the Zoo and the Indiana State Museum.
Before 12 noon we (L to R Larry, George, self and Rick) pulled up in front of the Motel and felt doubly satisfied. We had rescued yesterday and had completed the 62 miles in under 4 hours. For me that was good. The others could have done it faster. To gratify myself. I looked on the situation that I was the team-leader and that they were obliged to cosset me against all attacks. That’s my story anyhow!
SATISFACTION
You have no idea how happy I was with the fact that yesterday had been recovered. I want to do the full trip for Providence. I didn’t actually lose out on a Rest Day. Yesterday was my rest day. And being back at noon meant that I could get things done. A load of washing yesterday and another today.
On Rest Days we arrange our own meals and I had dinner in The Old Spaghetti Factory, a family owned restaurant since 1969 in what looks like what used to be a warehouse. Beautiful décor. For those who may be interested, I started with a crisp green salad with croutons and blue cheese sauce. For main course I had strips of marinated chicken breast with marinara and Alfredo sauces over penne pasta topped with shredded Romano cheese complete with a half carafe of Chianti wine. And the lot sweetened with spumoni ice-cream for desert.

I liked it and I finished the lot. And all for just $20 ( Euro 14). My waiter was JJ. I had to ask him if he was James Joseph or John Joseph. No. He was Juan Jesus.
Cladagh
On the way back to the motel I spotted I had to drop in to the Claddagh Irish Pub to savour the atmosphere. It was genuine and owned by Pat McDonagh of Galway who owns Supermacs. Had one enjoyable Guinness there and a most interesting conversation.

It was a great day. What seemed like disaster yesterday was saved with a crisp cycle in good company and I got a feel for downtown Indianapolis. The train is back on the tracks again.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

DAY 37 OF 54: CRAWFORDSVILLE(IN) TO INDIANAPOLIS (IN)

2008-07-07T19:07:00.005-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)

Punctures so far: 7

Everyday on this trip is full of surprises (and disappointments)
Alarm off at 5.45 am to the background of a violent thunderstorm outside. That in itself didn’t cause too much worry. We’ve been there before. But this one persisted. The arrangement last night was to pick up breakfast at Joey’s on the way. Torrential rain and continuous lightning and thunder put paid to that. Shuttle service provided to the café and no rush with the French toast and scrambled eggs. Staff worked on alternatives.
The radar showed a more violent storm moving in from the west that would persist for the day. Greg, our cyclist/meteorologist confirmed this reading for the day ahead. Outside the storm continued.
Back at the motel decisions had to be made. Safety was numero uno. Cycling in the rain was no problem. Dealing with lightning and thunder was something else. Cycling on busy highways with poor visibility for drivers and possible potholes hidden beneath water on the shoulder for me bordered on the irresponsible. Some decided to wait till the late afternoon to see if the storm eased but no one could set out unless America by Bicycle staff gave the all-clear. Their main concern is our safety.

Cyclists and bikes were to be shuttled to the motel in Indianapolis over the course of the day. Visibility on the road was as above. No place for a cyclist.
I was very disappointed to forego what was to be a most promising day…. a chance to visit the Roark cycle factory, an opportunity to cycle around the Major Taylor Velodrome and to go to the Indianapolis Speedway. Everyone was keyed up last night with the prospect.
Also for me I had planned a bit of investigation of my own. One small town on the route was New Ross and I reckoned there had to be a connection. A few queries about town should reveal something interesting.
Luggage was loaded well beneath the awning at the motel door as usual and I went to collect my bike (RW PACAT) from my room to be greeted by a flat front wheel…….a hotel flat or a lightening flat! At least now I had a bit of time to replace the tube.

However I considered safety and responsibility to myself to be of the utmost importance and also that there are 17 more days to go. I didn’t want to jeopardise those. A collision or a tumble would put paid to the rest of this wonderful adventure and challenge. The kids in Providence deserve the full journey and what it will raise for their school. I had looked forward to this ride today as I do every morning. Ah well! Hope there will be no more of these days.
When the bikes finally arrived at the Indianapolis Motel the front wheel was flat again. Was it just that the valve wasn’t sealed or does it count as another puncture. That would be two punctures in one day without throwing my leg over the top tube. That would be a record. We’ll see. Some riders stayed on and on in Crawfordsville and left around mid-day and luckily had'nt much rain and arrived just before Route Rap at 5.30.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy …… things could be an awful lot worse.

DAY 36 of 54: CHAMPAIGN (IL) TO CRAWSFORDSVILLE (IN)

2008-07-06T18:10:00.008-06:00

Time Zone : Eastern (GMT -5)
Todays Distance: 83 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 05 mins
Average Speed: 16.3 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1533 ft

Average Heart rate: 115 bpm

Distance so far: 2697 miles

Ascent so far: 87,818 ft.
Centuries so far: 8
Punctures so far: 6
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today I cycled for all the boys and girls at Providence in Shillong including Ridalang,Mebalare and Pynshngainlang so that thy will get an opportunity of receiving a sound complete education.

A day to look forward to with a new state and the fourth and final time-zone. And the prospect of light early morning traffic for the third day running.
Shortly after 7 am all were ready to move out of Champaign on very quiet roads this Sunday morning. It takes a few miles for the muscles to warm up and for the various groups to form up. To-day was to be relatively short and with no hills worth mentioning.
As we moved along Bradley Avenue the cyclists were confronted with a long train stopped right across a level-crossing. It had been there for some time and some early departees had been waiting for a time. In our group, Deb and Gary knew of a slight detour to an underpass of 1.5 miles which we took and as we came back onto Bradley the train was still stuck on the crossing. Kudos to Deb, she owed me that since the Donner Pass day when I drew her back from navigational errors.
Once we got onto 1800 East we were in open country with the road to ourselves. It was a perfect morning for cycling – sunshine with cool air, deserted roads and good company. It was Sunday morning and at home we would all be doing this anyhow.

Still in very fertile country with corn dominating the crop scene as it has been for days. For the next 18 miles we turned left and right repeatedly as we threaded our way along the better surfaced roads of the horizontal/vertical grid pattern. By this stage the four of us moved along at a steady 17 mph and were making good progress.
Our first SAG at 30 miles appeared quickly and for the second time in two days it was located in front of a cemetery. Were we being told something? Was it that we were dead slow or were we to rest peacefully? Either way it was welcome especially with the sliced oranges. There was a run on sunscreen as the sunshine was getting stronger by the minute.
At the 45 mile mark the Indiana Stateline came into view just after Danville Correctional Centre (prison). This is the eight state on this trip, the smallest state west of the Appalachians with a population of 6.5 million and there had to be photos. It is sometimes referred to as the Hoosier sate and the term Hoosier used for a native of Indiana. Hoosier is the title of an award-winning 1986 film starring Gene Hackman based on the story of the Milan High School basketball team. The states are tumbling away fast at this stage.. 8 big ones gone and 7 more to go. The stateline also marked our passage into Eastern Time (GMT-5) so the watches put on 1 hour. . Crossroads of America refers to Indiana being the hub for several major Interstate Highways and the base of many transport and trucking companies.

Second SAG was in Veedersburg a small town on Route 136 but with a café that was exquisite in pies and in speed of service. It was located on a corner across the street from our stop and did well as a result. I had a beautiful Almond Joy and two glasses of cool lemonade for only 2 dollars. We filled half and locals filled the rest of the seating. The place was a tonic just for the atmosphere. Pity that the photo didn’t come out clearer…flash was turned off.
The soil at this stage seems to be more sandy and less organic but the corn is still thriving. Roads weave and twist with an amount of tree cover affording some shade to weary travellers. At this stage we had only twenty odd miles to go and still cranking it out at 18 mph on the level.
Shortly after 2 pm (Eastern Time) we approached Crawfordsville which is surrounded by an amount of deciduous forest. It is our destination for the day and the location of Wabash College, one of the four all-male colleges in the States with a roll of 900. Our motel is located on the western edge so we saw very little of the town of 15,000 so far. ( For dinner we had a shuttle to Joey’s Café on Main Street. We’ll cycle through downtown tomorrow morning.
Our group of four pulled into the Holiday Inn Motel at 2.15 very happy with our day’s cycle and there were high fives all round for Forest, self, Deb and Gary. I headed off to the room to ring home for the Leinster final result. If it had been different it would have capped off a wonderful Sunday. Ah well, the dream of the double isn’t over yet.

Another most enjoyable cycle and all looking forward to tomorrows trip into Indianapolis. It’s great to go to bed at night looking forward to the next day.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Today: “You bike?” Concise American for ‘An dtéann tú amach ag rothaíocht ar do rothar go minic mar chaitheamh aimsire?’

DAY 35 of 54: SPRINGFIELD (IL) TO CHAMPAIGN (IL)

2008-07-05T20:36:00.013-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 101 miles
Cycling time: 6 hrs 34 mins
Average Speed: 15.3 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1757 ft

Average Heart rate: 119 bpm

Distance so far: 2614 miles

Ascent so far: 86,285 ft.
Centuries so far: 8
Punctures so far: 6
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today I cycled for Marius, Ayzul, Sagreeta and Tony and all the children especially those who have not met Abbey students yet.

Lovely weather again today and not a rolling hill in sight. Although we gained altitude it was so so gradual. Another century and finished with an extravagant celebration.

As the sun rose on Springfield the morning after the Independence Day celebrations, we trooped to Bob Evans for a hot breakfast before today’s cycle. It was either oatmeal or a fry…pity it couldn’t have been both for the perfect start.
The iconic Route 66 passed through Springfield as it threaded its way across 8 states from Chicago to Santa Monica in California. It was a symbol of freedom and the American Dream. Established in 1926 it was decommissioned from the highway system in 1985. Parts of the original concrete paving remains in places and tourists still follow the route as much as is practicable.
Small towns and stations trade on its popularity. During my visit to Tipperary, Missouri, Rick Stanford showed me the 1960 Corvette he is restoring with a view to driving from Chicago to the pier in Santa Monica. We wish him the best and safe driving.
We left directly after loading and headed out by Lake Springfield, a man-made lake and owned by one of the public utility companies. Already a number of anglers were out for a Saturday morning spot of fishing and gave us a wave.
Within a few miles we faced into a very recently removed bridge. A detour was suggested by passers-by but a more direct approach seemed more attractive. It did mean hauling the bikes through the soft mud but it was a novelty on a day that we knew would present very little in scenic terms.
After crossing Gary and I set off together as arranged and we kept up a strong pace passing through never-ending fields of corn with some soya beans thrown in. This is very fertile countryside for both crops. We alternated taking the front though there was very little wind. In still air it is reckoned that the one behind uses 1% less energy for each mph. In no time at all we arrived at the first SAG in the Lincoln Trail Mmorial Park on the banks of the Sangamon River at the 31 mile mark. Nearly a third of the way.
Shortly after the SAG a group of about 8 riders caught up and we were asked to join in to benefit from the paceline set-up. It did make a mighty difference. Previously Gary and I had been making very good progress at 15.5 mph and alternating at the front. When we joined into the larger group and drafted, with actually less energy being expended we moved along at 17.5 mph. I hadn’t ridden in a paceline since the year I rode with the Carrick Touring Club and had forgotten the benefit. Today I cycled 40 miles with that group keeping up the pace and savoured it. The miles were clocking up on the odometer with great speed. The group kept well together also after the second SAG and with the 80 mile mark approaching all seemed well.

At that stage one rider moved to the front and upped the pace for some unknown reason. The others in the front didn’t want to let him go and followed. Sounds like a race! This was up a grade for me. A gap gradually opened and two of us began to drift. I kept turning them hard for the next seven miles trying to bridge that gap. At times I seemed to be making headway but eventually I decided to let them go and to follow a more relaxed pace for the last 10 miles and look for a few photo moments. I really enjoyed life in the paceline. I found those miles between 40 and 80 passed so quickly and enjoyably without fierce pressure. Pace was about 17 to 18 mph and just normal concentration was required. Unrelated to the paceline, one rider fell today and broke his collarbone and must return home for surgery. None of us like to see that happen. We all want each one of us to finish the challenge and no injuries.
The 1700N ran directly for 8 miles into Champaign (pronounced like bubbly) with the usual soya and corn planted right out to the road. I took my time though still moving at 13 or 14 mph but on the lookout for a good shot.
A large water treatment plant was being developed in the area and stacks of their pipes lined the road. I had a good long look at the field of soya as if down the barrel of a gun. Another good from dropping/being dropped off the paceline.

Champaign and Urbana are side by side and between them have a population of 100,000. In summer temperatures often go over 90 degrees and over the winter they receive 30 inches of snow. Today’s scheduled ride was 97 miles, but as anyone knowing me realises, I’m a sucker for going that extra mile. Another century was on the cards especially as I felt so fresh. I did a bit of a tour of the city around the motel and eventually clocked in at 101 miles
I arrived at the Comfort Inn motel at 3pm after stopping off at Subway for a sandwich and a cool drink. To refresh my slightly aching limbs then I went extravagant and treated myself to a bath in Champaign … not every day I do that.

Tonight we were supposed to eat at Ryan's Buffet Grill but had to eat elsewhere. First time there was a change in dinner venue. Perhaps someone could explain.

An enjoyable day's cycling with a different approach for a period. And a century
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

PS: the link for the interview on KQTV last Monday is http://stjoechannel.com/content/fulltext_news?cid=20781

DAY 34 of 52: JULY 4: QUINCY (IL) TO SPRINGFIELD (IL)

2008-07-04T21:07:00.010-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 106 miles
Cycling time: 7 hrs 34 mins
Average Speed: 14 mph
Today’s cumulative ascent: 2691 ft
Average Heart rate: 116 bpm

Distance so far: 2513 miles
Ascent so far: 84,428 ft.
Centuries so far: 7
Punctures so far: 6

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is July 4, Independence Day and I dedicate today’s cycle to Saoirse , our granddaughter in California. She is the only American citizen in our family and we’re so proud of her.

A day of cycling a century on relatively quiet roads with no rain, plenty of comments and two punctures. What else do you need?

No rain or threat of rain as we gathered to set off at 7 am. A century (106 miles) lay ahead with the last of the rolling hills ( ‘Apples, oranges or chocolate. Anyone for the last of the Rolling Hills’ ) in the early stages and the prospect of 50 miles of level terrain for the last 50 miles

Being the Fourth of July it was a national holiday and a day of celebration. Almost all cyclists wore the America by Bicycle shirt with its stars and stripes. Also it was suggested that we decorate ourselves or our bikes to create a bit of atmosphere. No one knew what would appear till breakfast was over. I was disappointed with the amount who decorated. It was all a bit of craic. I had decided to put a bit of effort into it and had paid a visit to Joanne’s Fabrics during our rest day in St Joseph - after all my media responsibilities had been attended to! When we emerged for loading all was out in the open. Most of the other decorated ones were of the international contingent. My ensemble caught the eye with ohs and ahs and wows. (detailed description later). Many photos were taken before the off. The decorations were to be worn as far as the first SAG at least. I wore mine all day as it would have been difficult to remove it. After breakfast I was busy with needle and thread attaching the cape to my shirt and bib to make it secure. At the end of the day it took a while to snip the threads (especially with the left hand) without damaging the shirt. The flying cape caught the eye of motorists and pedestrians during the day … always complimentary. Actually I didn’t find the billowing cape any hindrance or drawback over the 106 miles.
Description for fashion and design gurus: a tightly fitted bodice featuring striking stars and stripes all covered by a waist-length flowing cape of printed cotton featuring interlocking stars and stripes motifs. All this underneath a tuile of discrete red and blue coloring emblazoned with bold stars of silver. A festively decorated neckpiece unified the total effect. Headwear consisted of a stiff Giro Atmos protective shell (non-optional) in appropriate colouring with a large red, white and blue Daisy Duck bow at the rear. So there you are now…. I did make a bit of an effort.
Today I cycled with Gary (IL) and obviously he had a lot of local information. We kept up a steady pace and only stopped for the two SAG stops and when I got the punctures. Two punctures today and both in the front. The first was just a slow leak at first and happened a mile short of the first SAG. A pumping up got me in and we repaired it there…a pinch flat. A new tube in, pumped to 100 lbs pressure and off again. The second happened just as we turned in to a gas station a few miles short of the motel. This time it was a tiny piece of radial wire and it took some time to find the culprit and remove it with a tweezers. Another new tube in etc. One good outcome of all this is that I now can whip off the tyre and replace it with my bare hands; levers are only for wimps! These hands are lethal at this stage.

There are firework displays and picnics this afternoon and evening in the large centres. I saw very little evidence of preparations as we passed through towns except for Meredosia on the banks of the Illinois River where they were in the final preparations and in the centre of Springfield itself. Nothing was actually under way at that stage. The one thing I saw plenty of was men out cutting their lawns and broad roadside edges.
At the moment, there are plenty of fireworks and crackers going off. It reminds me of Diwali being celebrated up in Shilong.
After 46 miles we crossed the broad Illinois River. Evidently, it didn’t have the same flooding problems as the Mississippi. Mighty barges were moored there ready to transport wheat downstream hen needed.
Illinois is all corn and soya. I believe the University of Illinois is one of the best for cereal research … has plenty to work on anyhow. We did pass some research stations of the University along the way. Corn is at an advanced stage now even though there was a big worry about sowing earlier because of the rains. For many straight miles it was corn, corn, corn on both sides and into the distance.
14 miles out on the road we arrived at the town of Liberty (Pop 600) and paused for a photo. The Irish word for liberty or freedom is saoirse and I just had to pause as I was cycling for Saoirse today. Maybe some day she will pass through here. On a trans-continental cycle perhaps? Already at 9 months she has been out on a bike a number of times and recognises bumpy terrain (baby rolling hills) and headwind.
On this side of the Mississippi there is almost a European feel about some parts of towns and landscape. Small churches like the Lutheran one in Liberty is a case in point. Roads tend to be less straight and more interesting as a result. At the start of today’s ride trees offered shade from the warming sun.
Springfield is the capital of Illinois (12 million people) and the capitol is an impressive building as is the Court House along Monroe Street. Quite a few older examples of architecture were visible. Because of the punctures time was moving on and didn’t have time to move around the centre of town for a period. Abraham Lincoln lived here for 24 years before becoming President in 1860. He was assassinated in 1866 and is buried 2 miles north of town with his wife and three of his children. WE finally arrived at the Motel at 4 pm, took photos with high fives and off to the rooms
Another century and a day of level cycling for a change.Kept thinking it was Sunday all day today. A colourful day but its back to the ‘black-and-white’ tomorrow.. Still, I’m looking forward to it.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Today: As we passed through Springfield, we were spotted by two kids playing near the roadside. The saw us approach with the cape flying

Kid 1: Hey, look, that guy looks like Superman.

Kid 2: It is Superman.

DAY 33: JULY 3: KIRKSVILLE (MO) TO QUINCY (IL)

2008-07-03T20:29:00.007-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 86 miles
Cycling time: 7 hrs 41 mins
Average Speed: 11.2 mph
Today’s cumulative ascent: 3713 ft

Average Heart rate: 98 bpm

Distance so far: 2407 miles

Ascent so far: 81,737 ft.
Centuries so far: 6
Punctures so far: 4

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for Aristar, Barishan, Sumarlang, Banrilang and all the children in Providence who have had an influence on me since 1999.

Our last day in Missouri and crossing the mighty Mississippi and the first of cycling in the rain.

Eventually it had to happen. We have had so many escapes and near misses no one really blamed the elements. Even as we loaded after breakfast the rain was falling heavily and showing no sign of letting up. But the show must go on and everyone dressed accordingly for what might be a long uncomfortable day. I wore bootees over the cycling shoes and they helped a lot. At least the rain wasn’t running down my socks into the shoe. Normally at home I wouldn’t go out in such conditions even though I ofted would be caught out in heavy rain. No room for choices this morning.
However as we moved through Kirksville even though I was getting wet there was heat in the air (almost 70 degrees) and that eased the discomfort. Not near as bad as cold winter rain. No point in worrying about whether I was keeping dry or not. (See Heard Today). The sky was heavy all around and earlier the TV Weather Channel had been giving reports of heavy rains overnight.
Twenty minutes after departing the rain eased off and it got a bit cooler. Roads were still wet and brakes wouldn’t be as dependable as usual. No point in putting them to the test unnecessarily.
I decided to cycle with the more sedate element (3 of us) with no place for heroics in these conditions. I knew it would take longer but no point in arriving at the motel dead on time. So gradually the rain gear came off although the day never reached high temperatures…. stayed more or less in the 70’s all day.
The route today wasn’t extraordinary. Not as much grain but plenty of soya and corn. Meadowland was extensive and a fair amount of stock in fields and in yards. In some cases, I was glad there was a strong fence between them and the camera (and cameraman). Again the first half of the day was over rolling hills..up then down then up again etc. Just keep the head down, pedal on and don’t assume this is the last one.
Hay in round bales mostly was common with many wrapped and lined up in the farm yards. Apparently the rain came suddenly yesterday evening with tractor and all abandoned in the field like the Marie Celeste. No hay making today and none tomorrow either…. Independence Day

We kept off busy Highway 6 and passed through some very small towns or cities according to the limit sign complete with the population. Williamstown could have been busier where we made a brief stop. All shops seemed empty except the Post Office and that wasn’t open. Gas station didn’t have customers for years and only a lonely drinks machine on the forecourt. Adair was a pretty little place with a scenic church …. sounds familiar. We had our first SAG in Baring and the local bank building, Baring’s Bank was in ruins …. sounds familiar also. All human life is here.
After 82 miles we dropped down to the Mississippi and came face to face with the millions of sand bags built up as a levee. Levels are dropping back by now but all the signs are still there … silt on the road.
The corn down here on the low ground is thriving on the moisture in the ground and it is more advanced than anything else we’ve seen. Earlier in the day we came on fields that were under water near the Fabius River which we criss-crossed many times.
Usually this cycle crosses the Mississippi on a ferry. The river can be a mile wide in places. But the ferries are not running and will not be for another three months. The bridges … two in Quincy have no shoulder and are very busy with all the trucks. Cycling across would be reckless so the SAG wagons shuttled us across in groups from Taylor. It did mean a wait for the wagon to return but it afforded the opportunity to relax … it was now 4 pm.
Front wheels were whipped off the bikes, loaded up on top and then the short run over the Centennial Bridge (south) into Quincy. It is a massive river and running fast. You could just imagine the devastation when the levees gave way. The down-side of the shuttle across was that we passed the ‘Welcome to Illinois’ sign. Pity to have missed that photo opportunity. Wheels back on to the bikes in a flash and just about 5 more miles to go.
Now we were definitely on the eastern side of the US.Would it be different? How would it be different? Within 10 minutes I noticed that traffic was more cut-throat and less cautious than before. At lights cars cut across in front if there was the slightest gap; one pick-up truck driver pulled out sharply in front of me causing me to swerve sharply (and shout) to avoid a collision; another car as it passed was heard to shout ‘get off the road’ at us. It really put us on guard rather quickly. We’ll definitely start cautiously tomorrow.
Our group, now swollen to four, arrived at the motel at 4.20 pm and it was nice to have a hot shower before Route Rap. Dinner was at a Chinese Buffet and it was lovely. I’m not into Chinese food but I ate what I liked and I liked what I ate. I couldn’t name what I had but it was delicious. Wouldn’t mind if we go Chinese again.

Enjoyed the day. The countryside didn’t present anything exotic but still plenty to be noted. Would have loved to actually cycle over the Mississippi but that is secondary to safety. And all keyed up for tomorrow. Still as eager for the bike each morning as at the early stages. I had expected a drudge-factor to enter the scene at some point but no sign of it yet. Hope I don’t have to eat my words.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Today: As consolation when setting out in the rain ‘ Remember, you can only get soaked once’

DAY 32: JULY 2: CHILLICOTHE (MO) TO KIRKSVILLE (MO)

2008-07-02T20:46:00.009-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 95 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 39 mins
Average Speed: 16.8 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 4565 ft

Average Heart rate: 118 bpm

Distance so far: 2321 miles

Ascent so far: 78,024 ft.
Centuries so far: 6
Punctures so far: 4

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for Michael Ryan and J J O’Dwyer who have travelled to Shillong with Abbey India Project and have done so much to encourage and to empower local communities there.

Starting this morning I was excited about the prospects for the day. I was planning to make a short side journey to visit Tipperary, Missouri. It was also Day 32 so something surely was in store. There was …….. a reminder of home.
We left Chillicothe before 7 am and took CR ‘V’. the morning was quite dark and we knew that storms were brewing somewhere. Skies were overcast and quite a few riders had their rear red blinkers on. Heavy drops were falling but not enough to warrant rain-gear. One would have got as wet by sweating up in the gear as we were in the raindrops. A sure reminder of home, from what I hear.
Not much work would be done in the meadows of Misssouri today and the machinery stood idle. A short period in the early afternoon turned sunny and began to throw a few shadows. This inclement weather assured me that indeed I was close to Tipperary. It seemed that the day couldn’t make up its mind what to do and that suited us fine. We could hear thunder far off to our right. This type of storm activity had been forecast since the weekend.
Another puncture today. The fourth in 32 days….can’t complain. The roads again were uneven especially where there was evidence of flooding recently. Cracks ran across the road and I reckon that I got a pinch-flat as I hit one of them hard. No sign of any thorn or steel in the tyre. Didn’t take long to replace the tube and luckily the SAG wagon came along so I could use the foot-pump. In fact it was Gerard, the resident mechanic, who gave it all the finishing touches. Roads were rough but not as bad as the road from the Rosy Cross down to Donaskeigh.
This morning I set off with Gary and Deb and Forest as I wanted to make up some time to visit Tipperary. We kept up a smart pace exceeding 16 mph even though we were on rolling hills again. The touch of rain didn’t slow down the pace and by noon I was at the 74 mile mark and ready to depart from the scheduled route. No one else was on for this bit of a detour…. I didn’t expect there would be.
Tipperary involved a 5.5 mile side trip on K road. I had checked it out on maps.google last night and knew what to expect. The K road went through lovely wooded countryside….oak, hickory and sycamore, and more grassland than soya beans or corn.
All that remains of Tipperary now is a junction with two houses, the Fischers and the Ledfords. It is also called Midland and Ida. Midland because the Midland Mining Company owned a lot of the coal mines in the locality and they put up the houses for the miners. Midland is the name on the signpost but the older residents still refer to it as Tipperary. Originally (till 1930’s) there were 31 houses here and all of the same design.
Square, four rooms and a pyramid roof. The two remaining are original with a back section added on and renovated. The other houses were moved to other mining locations. I saw the map of the plots as they were before the place almost disappeared.
Coal mining was big in this locality and miners were brought in from various parts of Europe and added colour to the culture of the area. Each miner had a disc with his number on it and nailed it to his wagon of coal as he sent it up. On that basis he was paid. I got one of those and another is being sent on. I saw one other of the miner’s houses in some disrepair and the old school in nearby Salisbury.
I called enquiring to Fischers but they have just moved in. Across to Ledford’s but not a lot of information there but she directed me to a house 1.5 miles back the road.
As I neared this house an oncoming car flagged me down as a cyclist and offered his back porch as a place to rest and enjoy the view (magnificent) while he was off to town on an errand. Very kind of him. I thanked him but said that I was looking for the people with all the knowledge of Tipperary. ‘That’s my Ma and Pa. You’re from Tipperary, Ireland!’ He swung the car around and brought me in. Unfortunately his parents weren’t in just then. Probably be back soon.
He was Rick Stanford and his parents Margie and Ellis. Ellis has just had bypass surgery at 85 and wasn’t up to chatting but he had maps and document dealing with the mining days of Tipperary. Rick (married for 41 years) gave me a quick synopsis and then had to get to the bank, but I was to relax on the back porch for about 30 mins.
He was back pronto and the chat continued…. I trying to get info on Tipp Missouri and he seeking the same on Tipp Ireland. He is a member of the local History Society and lived in a miners house in Tipperary for 14 years. Only sold it lately to the Fischer’s. The story behind the name is that as two miners (presumably Irish) were making their long way from the mine back up to the houses on a wet dreary winter evening, one said to the other ‘Well, tonight its’ going to be a long way to Tipperary’
Rick’s parents returned and I met Margie. Ellis was suffering distressing pain and just wasn’t up to talking. She (82) had yarns about the old days there and was thrilled to meet someone from the real Tipperary. Tipperary was popular in the bootlegging days as Cripple John always had a store of liquor for those willing to travel for it. I explained that the meaning of Tipperary (Tiobraid Arann) was the Wells of the Ara people and the proliferation of wells in the environs of the town. He told me there was a well outside the back door of Fischer’s where Cripple John lived and that he kept the liquor hidden in that from the Revenuers and also to keep it cool. Maybe there is a connection.
We exchanged addresses and information will flow each way. He gave me one of the miner’s tags and I was scalded that I had no Tipperary item to give him. This was the last thing I expected. Have to set up a twinning with Tipperary Missouri. It is shown as Tipperary on maps.google……just type in Tipperary Missouri and there she is at the junction of K and DD roads.
I finally arrived at the motel in Kirksville on my own at 4.15. Kirksville is where osteopathic medicine was pioneered and is still a leading centre. The other cyclist were so keen to know how I got on. I told them that I had spoken personally to every resident of Tipperary, Missouri but would answer no further numerical questions.

A most interesting day. Being Number 32, I just knew it would be. It may well be the start of a new link. To day I found that I was not a long way from Tipperary. Really shows the potential that is in even the title of that song. Today, for once the cycling took the back seat.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Today: 'Well, how did you get on in Tipperary?' so many times since I checked in this evening.

DAY 31: JULY 1: ST JOSEPH (MO) TO CHILLICOTHE (MO)

2008-07-01T19:44:00.010-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 90 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 45 mins
Average Speed: 15.6 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 3566 ft

Average Heart rate: 127 bpm

Distance so far: 2226 miles

Ascent so far: 73,459 ft.
Centuries so far: 6
Punctures so far: 3
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for Br Steve and Br Peter in St Edmunds and all the other Brothers on St Edmund’s campus who have contributed to our experiences. And for Br Dinny (RIP) who made us feel so much at home there always. God reward you all. Thank you

Back on the road again after a relaxing Rest Day and all very keen to get going. We have four new riders – Leslie and Virginia (GA) on a tandem who did the first half last year and Joe and Danny, a grandfather/grandson pair (Joe on a recumbent). Shortly after 7 am we set out from St Joseph (referred to as St Joe locally) on Route 6 East.

As usual the low morning sun was in our eyes for the first few miles. I needed a quick job done on the rear hub before setting out. A quick tightening and the play in the back wheel was rectified. Assuming that I was the last to leave I pedalled off attempting to catch up with the usual group. Only later in the morning did I find out that they were behind the luggage trailer fixing a flat for another cyclist. (I didn’t remember what I’d heard about assume.)
Soon the group gradually broke into the usual sub-groups and we were back on the rolling flint hills. In Nevada I got a new understanding of the words vast and infinity. Here in Missouri I’m getting a deeper insight into everlasting. These rollers are everlasting – they come at you like the waves on the seashore. One after another after another etc. we had 50 miles of them. It was an advantage to ride alone in that I could descend at my own pace and use the momentum to climb the next one. None of them were too long, but everlasting.
As the last section of the cycle finished off, so did this section begin. Dogs. I couldn’t but think of the Baha Men song ‘Who Let the Dogs Out’. At about the 16 mile mark two brutes came out from the right and proceeded to have an early lunch. Again, I decided not to go for the camera but burst into a sprint and left them in my wake. My sprinting is improving as a result. 3 miles further on two more appeared and repeated the process. Eventually these gave up the chase possibly because of the sprint or that they understood Irish or didn’t like the shaking of fists or just because of my persuasive personality. Saved again. Dogs appeared again at the 40 mile mark but only gave token chase. I think word had spread on www doggie.com to leave the lad with the Providence shirt alone; you haven’t a chance.

More than any other day I noticed flowers along the way. Granted there was a lot of meadows on both sides (as well as soya at the early stages). The milkweed (left)was plentiful and still in flower. When a stem is broken a milky substance quickly appears. Later in the season after flowering, pods form and burst open in August scattering seeds like the dandelion. It is a great favourite with the Monarch butterfly, the best known of the North American butterflies.
We are coming near to the Mississipi and today we saw the first of the flooding just before we came to Chillicothe near to the Thompson River. Floods were on both sides of the road and fields were still under a considerable amount of water. I thought that the surfaces of the roads near the end of the cycle were rough possibly also as a spin-off of the flooding. The ferries that usually take trucks etc over the river are out of commission for the next 3 months. Our bikes will be transported across as the bridges are unsafe for cycling due to the increased vehicular traffic.
Our second SAG was in Jamesport where there is a large Amish community an Anabaptist denomination found mostly in Ohio, Pennsylvania and Indiana. They use horses for farming and transportation, dress in a traditional manner and forbid electricity or telephones in the home even zippers are shunned. The aesthetic value is one of plainness with absolutely no ostentation. A large number of carts were up and down the street while we were at the SAG.
Just as I came out of a confectionary shop in Jamesport after treating myself I met two men an as is usual they enquired where were off to, where we started and where we all came from. I told him ‘from Tipperary, you probably heard of the song’. He ( the one in the yellow top) told me there was a Tipperary up near his place about 74 miles away. Nice to hear but pity it was so far, especially for a bike. He said it was just a few houses now, used to be a mining town. I found out later that it is just 5 miles off our route tomorrow, so I intend doing the bit extra to pay a visit and conduct a twinning ceremony with Tipperary, Missouri. More about this tomorrow, hopefully.

Destination after 90 miles appeared in the town of Chillicothe (pop 9000). Chillicothe prides itself as the Home of Sliced Bread and a large mural on the Main St proclaims that pride. Sliced bread was first offered for sale here in 1928. The town capitalises on its claim by offering themed t-shirts, aprons, posters and even candles that give off the fragrance of freshly baked bread.
For the last two segments of todays cycle I joined up with Gary (Il) and Forest (MD) and we kept up a respectable pace for the period. We arrived at the Best Western Motel at 2.30 when the temperature was reading 88 degrees.

Felt good to be back on the bike again after the lay-off. An up and down day literally but enjoyable. The wind left us alone but not the dogs. I look forward to tomorrow and visiting Tipperary.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Seen Today: Possibly as a result of the downturn in property, one ranch had its name in large letters over its entrance ‘El Rancho Bankruptus’

DAY 30: JUNE 30: REST DAY

2008-06-30T16:39:00.008-06:00

Great to have a rest day after 4 weeks of cycling. Not that I’m weary or fatigued, but it gives you a chance to catch up on things and to transform the In-Basket into an Out-Basket. Laundry, bike cleaning, e-mails, account for the Nationalist and local papers and radio, a few postcards to write and a phone call or two while it’s still a respectable time at home. It’s a rest day but not an idle day. A chance to get things done without extreme fuss or stress. None of the group sleeps late into the morning but all stir about an hour after the usual time.

At 9 am this morning, as already organised by phone during the week, I met with Bishop Ray Boland O’Brien of Kansas City and St Joseph who attended the Abbey in 1945/46. He heard through the grapevine that I was passing close so he drove up from Kansas City (1 hour) to meet me on the rest day and add support to the cause. I was thrilled to meet him and we spoke for a long period about the school then and now and about the town and his relations still in Tipp. With him came Jack Smith the editor of The Catholic Way and he interviewed me concerning the cycle, the Abbey India Project and Providence School. It will appear in an early July issue and a copy will be on its way to the Abbey
Just as they finished I got a tap on the shoulder and was asked by a TV journalist if I was Richard Walsh and that she, Ariane Aramburo, was here from KQTV, the local television station to conduct an interview. Again I spoke to her about the cycle and the Abbey India Project in front of the motel and it so happened other cyclists were out cleaning the bikes just then. The item may appear on their news this evening at 6. I hope all this extra exposure will ensure that Providence will benefit and the kids there will get a better opportunity.

In the afternoon I went for a stroll down Frederick Boulevard for a break and I spotted a Mexican restaurant called Carlos O’Kelly ….. not a name you’d expect down Mexico way. A spell in the swimming pool followed to ease out any tension that may remain in the muscles.

All is now ready for The Heartlands Tour as far as Indianapolis starting tomorrow and continuing for the next 7 days.

PS: In fact the TV item did appear on the 6 pm News and a number of the group viewed it in the lobby. I'll try to get a copy from the station.

DAY 29: JUNE 29: TOPEKA(KS) TO ST JOSEPH (MO)

2008-06-29T20:20:00.011-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 88 miles
Cycling time: 6 hrs 22 mins
Average Speed: 13.4 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 3391 ft

Average Heart rate: 121 bpm

Distance so far: 2136 miles
Ascent so far: 69,893 ft.
Centuries so far: 6
Punctures so far: 3

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for Cheteri and his team (not all in the photo) who efficiently look after the needs of the Abbey contingent during their periods in St Edmunds. God be good to ye.

Another good day’s cycling; another state and across a major river and the prospect of a rest day tomorrow
No adverse weather signs this morning as we loaded up the luggage and set out for another day’s cycle. We have now been cycling for 4 weeks with only 2 days off. Today was a mere 88 miles to St Joseph. As usual we set off into the rising sun through the up and down streets of Topeka.
In the city centre we crossed over the wide Kansas Riverin full flow, which eventually joins the Missouri. Some local connections with Topeka – it is referred to as the Golden City but a little bigger than Golden (pop 125,000). We couldn’t match that even with a West Final up in the field. Also the word ‘Topeka’ is a Kansas tribal name meaning “good place to grow potatoes” so it would be like Ballyporeen at home. These type of thoughts really set you in the mood for a long spell in the saddle.

I cycled alone today from the 10 mile marker. My usual Sunday cycle is done solo so this was no different. The rolling hills don’t make for great paceline work; each one just have to take them on at their own pace. No threar from the weather but generally we faced a headwind or side wind for the day. It wasn’t gale-force but I’d prefer one from the rear. To minimise the effect of the wind I spent most time on the drops (unusual for me) and felt that it was paying off especially up the hills. But , when I returned to putting my hands on top, I felt I had my hands raised high above me; that someone had interfered with the bike. Weird.
All day we were up and down but especially when we crossed into Missouri. These were serious rollers just like Tuscany. There was no relief on reaching the top, as I knew that it was going to start all over again. But a good number of the roads were sheltered with trees – very like yesterday. In Missouri especially, corn (maize) seemed to be the dominant crop
First SAG came after 30 miles and the next would be almost 40 miles further on. So bottles filled and the extra bananas and bars in the pocket after signing in.

I noticed more flowers today than on previous days. A good number, especially golden Aubretia but they were on down slopes and I was reluctant to stop to take a photo. All possible momentum was needed for the coming climb. I was making good progress without any tiredness or fatigue and had 40 miles (almost half way) done before Mass time in Kilfeacle. I felt quite pleased with myself and the day’s work. I should get to the motel before the hottest part of the day.
Not as many silos to be seen as a few days ago so I snapped this one – it might be the last one I’ll see for a while. Not right. They continued to crop up and in Atchinson our last town in Kansas there was the mother and father of a complex with silos lining the roadside for almost quarter of a mile.
At Atchinson I finally came to the Missouri and crossed it on a narrow but busy bridge. Usually at this time of the year, I am told, it is a mere trickle but the heavy rains up-country have ensured a strong flow and carrying plenty of silt. I believe crossing the Mississippi on Thursday will be a different matter.

Just across a photo opportunity presented itself at the Welcome to Missouri sign. Luckily Forrest was there at the same time and we accommodated each other with the cameras. Otherwise it would be difficult to capture that special moment. Missouri is referred to as the ‘Show-Me’ state and that appears on the car reg plates. One explanation is that Congressman Vandiver from Missouri in 1899 stated that he was not impressed by talk or eloquence ‘I’m from Missouri. You have got to show me’ Good yarn anyhow! So this is our 6th state. All the large square states are done. The other ones will topple in relatively quick succession. [Kansas is known as the Sunflower State]
All our cycling in Missouri today was on country roads and shadows could cover a hazard especially when wearing sunglasses. I got my first experience with dogs today. Two well-fed (I hope) animals suddenly ‘appeared out of nowhere’ and started snapping at my heels. No use in roaring ‘Suigh síos’ to those…they wouldn’t understand like the ones at home. The thought of canine teeth grinding against human bone enabled me to make a quick decision. Out of the saddle, big gear and pedal like hell. The plan worked and I left them for dead in about 20 yards. Sorry, that I have no photo. Didn’t seem to be a good idea to hang about. Still, over 2000 miles before I was treated like the proverbial postman. Not bad.

July 4th is fast approaching and fireworks are on sale in many temporary premises on the roadside. They were to be heard quite often as I passed through the suburbs of St Joseph. Stores are full of red,white and blue stars and stripes in preparation for Friday. There is a competition for the best turned out cyclist with the best turned out bike on the day. (See Seen Today below)
St Joseph was taken to be the gateway to the Wild West this due largely to the fact that it was the westernmost point in the United States accessible by rail until after the Civil War. During 1860, 1861 the Pony Express started here and transferred mail to Sacramento in California. I appreciate that distance now…June 2 to June 29 by bicycle on good roads. I wouldn’t fancy it cross country on a horse. In 1882 Jesse James was shot in his home here, now a museum and the hole in the wall made by the bullet is still to be seen. He was living under the alias ‘Mr Howard’ and the song records "...that dirty little coward that shot Mr. Howard has laid poor Jesse in his grave."
I cycled through the city’s Parkway, a 26 mile green-belt park that runs through the city. Wooded, peaceful and lots of sports facilities in certain areas. Just as I entered the Parkway there was an unexpected but welcome unofficial SAG sto organised bt Gerry and Sandra on their front lawn. Gerry is a keen cyclist and heard we were passing the way…lemonade, water, ice tea, trail mix, chairs etc. Thanks Gerry and Sandra, it came just at the right time. He was telling me that St Joseph is much greener this year than previously. Other years grass would just be turning brown at this stage.

I reached the Motel at 2.15 pm ahead of our luggage so the badly needed shower had to wait a while. The European Final was on the TV in the lobby but I was more excited to hear that Golden had beaten the Kickhams and qualified to take on Eire Og in the West semi. I also see that Taoiseach Brian Cowan is coming to New York on July 16. We’ll be in upstate new York that day. I suppose him joining us for a day is out of the question!

A god day’s cycling and I enjoyed having the road to myself. I wouldn’t do it every day. A new state; over the Missouri and a Rest day tomorrow. I think we deserve it. There will be an interesting blog tomorrow.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Seen Today: As part of the build-up for July 4th one banner store was advertising its wares on the roadside but I didn’t like the unsporting anti-Clare bias in their wording…. “DIRT CHEAP BANNERS”

DAY 28: JUNE 28: ABILENE (KS) TO TOPEKA (KS)

2008-06-28T19:29:00.008-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 109 miles
Cycling time: 7 hrs 27 mins
Average Speed: 14.7 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 3672 ft

Average Heart rate: 112 bpm

Distance so far: 2053 miles

Ascent so far: 66,502ft.
Centuries so far: 6
Punctures so far: 3
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for all the children in Providence including Bansara, Banrap, Sylvester, Jeet, Angelene, Robistar, George, Kitbok and Stanley who work well with their good teachers.

Today was our 6th Century of this trip and our last full day in Kansas and a day of rolling green hills.
At set-out this morning everyone donned raingear as drops started to fall just as we were loading. It wasn’t as ugly-looking as yesterday morning but heavy black skies were all about. We had escaped yesterday so we couldn’t be as lucky again. As it turned out we were. I was given credit for bringing ‘the luck of the Irish’. Once I don’t bring ‘the weather of the Irish’, my well-being is safe. Within half-an-hour of leaving Abilene the rain-gear was discarded and we settled down to covering those miles. After 15 miles to the south of us fork-lightning was visible for a short period but didn’t interfere. The morning was cool and cloud cover was there till noon. And no wind worth talking about. A perfect day for a century.
Today we saw very little grain although there was plenty of young soya on either side. Grass rather than grain was the flavour of the day and the ripples on the landscape together with plenty of trees made it homely. In the distance the silhouette of grain silos looked like Norman castles or keeps
At the 56 mile mark today as I approached Eskridge I came to the half-way point of my trek from San Francisco to Providence. (marked on the profile with cross-hairs) I marked it with chalk on the road for posterity. It’s there for the next one to take on this challenge. Decision time? Would I go back or go on? That was a no-brainer. More adventures ahead to be experienced and all for the sake of the lads in Providence.
So 2000 miles covered in 158 hours of cycling over 28 days having burned 122,719 calories, climbed 66463 feet and given back 65,502 of them. And now the same all over again. I t was a moment to savour.
All of today we had some shelter from hedges and trees should the wind blow up. It added variation to the route wondering what might be around the next stand of trees. More birdsong to be heard than previously and on one occasion we .were followed for a long period by a beautiful golden song bird flitting from one side to the other of the road.
It was all up and down today but never a long grinding climb. After a short uphill it was give-her-holly on the down slope to build up a bit of momentum and free the muscles of lactic acid. And the road ahead looked like a mild roller-coaster as it stretched away. The navigation today was longer than other days as we were on country roads from start to finish. But reading the cue-sheet now has become very straight-forward for me.

Today wasn’t as full of interest as yesterday. But two items caught my eye but not a sinner within miles to shed light on them. On the left hand side I spotted this rather forlorn tree with items such as ties, golf-balls, golf club, fishing rod etc hanging as if ceremoniously placed there. Very much like bushes near wells at home as in St Sednas in Clonbeg. No one within miles to explain. Outside a farmers place stood an unusual piece of art consisting of bicycles in all shapes of destruction. This is what could happen should you smack into one of those mighty trucks.
It seems that the farms (ranches) around east Kansas tend to be family owned from my observation. Often enough, small places were situated by the roadside with the usual farm machinery about. And no sign of irrigation but the hollows in fields held small permanent lakes. Cattle around here are spared life in the feed-lots, for the time being at least.
I reached the Holiday Inn Motel in Topeka at 3.45 pm as the day was warming up. Only in the last hour did high temperatures become noticeable. They had been in the 70’s for most of the day.
It was a smooth century free from rain, wind, big heat and stiff climbs. I cycled most of it on my own to stretch the legs and expand the lungs at my own pace and to get in before the big heat and the chance that a headwind would pick up. Really enjoyed it.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Spotted Today: I noticed so many familiar place names either on the route or on sign-posts like Dover, Manhattan, Detroit, Woodbine, Enterprise, White City, Keene, Holland and Hope.

Result of Competition: The winner of Name the Bike competition is Sinead Mullins who showed great imagination in her choice. Using the VW PASSAT as a base her suggested name was RW PACAT ..... RW obvious, PAC for the starting point at the PACific (soft 'c') and AT for destination at the ATlantic. Well done, Sinead. Your prize will be winging its way to you in the post. Thanks to all those who submitted a name.

DAY 27: JUNE 27: McPHERSON (KS) TO ABILENE (KS)

2008-06-27T20:39:00.008-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 67 miles
Cycling time: 4 hrs 23 mins
Average Speed: 15.2 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1047 ft

Average Heart rate: 104 bpm

Distance so far: 1944 miles

Ascent so far: 62,830 ft.
Centuries so far: 5
Punctures so far: 3
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:

Dedication: Today is for the children of Providence who come long distances to school in difficult circumstances; arrive with a happy ‘Good morning, teacher’ and work hard for the day just like Surolila, Purnima, Balari, Partima, Balakmen and Merisha.

In spite of things looking blue (metaphorically speaking ) at daybreak, today was pure pleasure;the main group passed the half-way point and we ended in Abilene KS which has a Tipperary connection.
Alarm went off at 6am and I decided that today I wanted to be finished before the big heat of the day arrived. Then I opened the door and was faced with a downpour of rain, howling wind and sheets of lightning. Heat now wasn’t an issue In thee breakfast room the TV was giving updates on the storm that was sweeping up over Kansas with the odd shot of flooding. Spirits were down a bit. Then on the other hand we had had 26 days of uninterrupted sunny pleasant warm weather. For me that doesn’t happen too often. So be grateful and complain not, man. . Sure, didn’t the bit of rain just ensure that we(those of us from Ireland, Wales and England) wouldn’t be homesick.
Back to the rooms and alter the dress for the day. At loading the raingear as well in evidence. Some even took a newspaper to add to protection. Fortunately as we pulled out from the Best Western onto Route 56 East the wind eased and rain stopped and not a sign of lightning. The storm had passed on, clouds were breaking and revealing some blue and things were looking up.
As we covered the first 11 miles we were heading due east with a strong wind hitting us hard on the right shoulder. But we were prepared to put up with it as we just knew things would change. There was plenty of evidence in the fields of the heavy rain last night. No need for irrigation today!
At the town of Canton our route turned due north with a strong tailwind and we knew that the rest of our route today was in that direction all the way to Abiline with the odd piece of road turning east or west for short periods. Now we cycled along country roads and it was a pleasure.
Still it was grain (some cut, some standing) and soya with plenty of greenery. By now, the sun had got the better of the clouds and the windbreaker that I had started out with, was off. Possibly that fear of the big heat wasn’t so far off the mark. As the wind was with us, better make use of it. I didn’t dare imagine what cycling against such a wind would be like. And it could happen over the space of 30 seconds. Make hay while the sun shines.
In so many places the fields (smaller that we have seen for the last few days) were surrounded with hedges and stands of trees. It was like a scene from home except for the long straight roads. Without scarcely pedalling we sailed along at 20 mph as the miles just kept mounting up on the odometer.
At 28 miles out we arrived at the official half-way point of the cycle to New Hampshire. Writing on the road marks the spot and many ceremonial photos were taken. Some lay down on the road, others straddled the line, some built a pyramid of bikers. For me it is not my half-way point; that happens when I clock up the 2000th mile tomorrow. I’ll have that occasion all for myself. That’ll be a pyramid of just one. Shouldn’t be a problem.
The SAG stop came shortly in the town of Gypsum. With O’Reillys Autocare in every large town and Gypsum today, a coachload of Cavan supporters (after been beaten by Meath!) must have ended up here years ago. Gypsum was quiet at this early hour of 9 am with 33 miles under our belt already.
Our SAG stop was at a gazebo in the city park where drivers also stopped to stretch their legs. Only one SAG today but it marked the half-way and cup cakes were on the menu to celebrate. The artistic squad had been up till the late hours formulating an appropriate design….and did a good job. Pity we had to do a demolition on it.
Within 6 miles of Abilene we ran into serious greyhound country with some very large kennels on both sides of the road (Old Route 40). And then there on the left was the HQ of the National Greyhound Association. It had vast kennels, runs, track and offices. I met Katie in the office and enquired about greyhounds in the locality. ‘Yes’, she said ‘you’ll see plenty more as you ride into town.’ Yea, she knew Pat Dalton (Golden) who comes there twice a year for the Spring and Fall meetings. She redirected me to the Greyhound hall of Fame in Abilene itself just across from the Eisenhower Centre. These were the first greyhounds I had seen since I’d left home.
I pedalled on into Abilene(wind in my back) and with the words of the George Hamilton IV song running through my head and hoping they were true
“Abilene, Abilene Prettiest town I ever seen. Folks down there don't treat you mean In Abilene, my Abilene.”
As things panned out the folks lived up the lyrics; except that the song was written about Abilene, Texas. Ah, well!
In the Tourist Information Centre I was given a quick resume of the city. Dwight Eisenhower grew up here and it is his final resting place. Besides his achievements on the world scene he was instrumental in the construction of the Interstate Highway system in 1956. Late in his life he stated “The proudest thing that I can claim is that I am from Abilene” The Eisenhower centre consists of the family home, museum, library, visitor’s centre and place of meditation and burial.
I arrive at the Greyhound Hall of fame and eventually stayed longer than I had planned. At reception I was greeted by the two resident dogs (retired racers who now only chase after your heart and afection). One was hobbling about with a bandaged foot (corns) and with satisfaction I learned that the other was called Abby. Serendipity. Of course there had to be a photo. The extensive museum gave the history of greyhounds from the time of Ulysses and Argos. I was thrilled to see a full section on Master McGrath, the Waterford three times winner of the Waterloo Cup and a national icon. He was invited to appear before Queen Victoria (a greyhound owner herself) at Windsor Castle. He travelled over by train accompanied by his trainer John Walsh (probably called Sean by his friends!)
Lots of interesting bits of information: In the Middle Ages clergymen protected greyhounds and bred them for the aristocracy. In the 10th century any commoner caught owning a greyhound was severely punished and the greyhound’s toes were cut off to prevent it from hunting. Elizabeth I was a coursing fan and devised a set of rules for coursing. Coursing became known as ‘The Sport of Queens’
I next went to the Hall of Fame established in 1963 by the now National Greyhound Association to recognise great figures in greyhound racing. Both dogs and owners are inducted with suitable citations and is the highest honour in the game. Wasn’t I proud to see Pat Dalton of Golden up there with the greats? A full account of his greyhound career and his citation read ‘For outstanding contribution as a kennel operator, owner and breeder of racing greyhounds’ Come on Golden/Kilfeacle. Beside him was Don Cuddy of Raheny, Dublin (For outstanding contribution as internationally recognised trainer of racing greyhounds). A most interesting visit and anyony into greyhounds would really enjoy it. I said goodbye to Abby and came away.
On my way to the hotel (I had arrived in Abilene at noon and it was now well after 2 pm) I called into the Shamrock Gas Station (surely an interesting connection in here) and ended up having a great chat with Rev Charles Huse of Holy Spirit Ministry (USA). He gave me his life testimony and how he had gone preaching the Word of God in India (near Madras) in November 1999 (the same time as when I first went to Shillong). An interesting meeting, gave me his literature and appreciated what I was cycling for. After all that I finally arrived at Holiday Inn Express at 2.45 pm.

Such a great day. The cycling was great and exhilarating through lovely countryside. What looked like impending disaster at breakfast time turned out so beautiful. Had such interesting visits and people to meet.
Thank god for the health and thank God for the energy.

Seen Today: “ A dog is a pet but a greyhound is family” in the greyhound Hall of Fame

DAY 26 : JUNE 26 : GREAT BEND (KS) TO McPHERSON (KS)

2008-06-26T19:07:00.007-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 64 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 01 mins
Average Speed: 12.8 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 648 ft

Average Heart rate: 100 bpm

Distance so far: 1877 miles

Ascent so far: 61,783 ft.
Centuries so far: 5
Punctures so far: 3
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for all those students from the Abbey, from St Joseph’s CBS Drogheda and from Maynooth and their accompanying teachers who have made great personal input into Providence. May the insights that you gained there always guide your actions.

Today was a short day (64 miles) with pretty favourable terrain all the way. Wind was more helpful than not as it came in over my right shoulder. No great difficulties and free from punctures.
Shortly after 7 am we left Great Bend and we headed directly East. At first the shoulder wasn’t the nicest to be riding on with much loose grit but the main carriageway seemed much smoother and more attractive but more dangerous. Resulting possibly from our relaying of the deputy-sheriff’s directions yesterday we all tended to stick to the rougher but safer shoulder.
The morning warmed up quicker than other mornings and the temperature read 86 degrees at 10 am.
There seemed to be a lot more nodding oil pumping jacks to be seen today especially soon after leaving Great Bend and they were situated closer to the road. Some of them pump into a pipe system while with others the oil was pumped directly into tanks nearby. They struck oil here in the late 1920’s just in time to keep the local economy out of the Great Depression. The one I visited for a close-up was driven by electric motor and, I believe, that depending on the size of the pump it can produce 5 to 40 litres of a crude oil/water mixture at each stroke.
Grain was being harvested on all sides throughout the day. The major crop in the county of McPherson (pronounced Mc Fur Son) is hard red winter wheat with over 220,000 acres planted annually.(529,000 acres in total in the county). It has beards like barley that led to my mis-identification on June 24. After all, 400 varieties of wheat are grown in the US. 70% of the agricultural economy is sales of crops and 30% is livestock. Didn’t see any feedlots during the course of today’s cycle. Grain sorghum is the number two crop followed by corn and soya beans. Corn (maize) is grown as an irrigated crop. Annual rainfall averages at 30 inches with the highest amounts from May till August.

Fields of young soya beans are regular along the route. The crop intrigued me for a time as to what it was. I had never seen soya before. I popped into a field, took a sample and consulted with higher authority at the SAG. You learn something new everyday. I am told that they will be at a more advanced stage as we move further east. Soya is the richest natural vegetable food available..

In the small town of Ellinwood the sheaf of wheat is part of their emblem and appears on all the lamp-posts.

For a second time since June 1 we cycled through a city called Lyons.... nicely laid out with some impressive municipal architecture. As in other towns large murals tell the story of the early settlers and pioneers. All was quiet as we passed through around 10 am.
I am approaching the halfway point of the journey for Providence and hoping that it will all be really worthwhile for the children there. I have got the odd e-mail re other donations that have come in to the Abbey and it heartens me. Usually, the end of an adventure is the time to acknowledge assistance given. At that point it could all get lost in the euphoria of the moment. I hope that I am not tempting fate here. As regards the cycling a few things over the last year have made a difference. I was notorious for saving water, not drinking anything near sufficient. It was suggested to me that I should hydrate more. Last summer I had a bad experience being caught out with no water and forced to do two long detours. Finally returning late and drained (and after 3 flats) I was looking grey and feeling green. Only then did the suggestions of my hydrating mentors, Margaret and Barrie, really hit home. Since then I drank more, at times it went against the grain but finally I succeeded in internalising the habit. Thanks, Margaret and Barrie. With winter in Ireland not being very conducive to cycling I knew that I would have to do gym work to supplement. At Christmas it was the example and urgings of Richard and Charles that pointed me towards Dundrum House Leisure Centre and its gym and pool. I’d always argued against exercising inside but this upcoming cycle challenge forced me indoors. Couldn’t wait for the long evenings and the good weather. (If I did wait, apparently I wouldn’t be out on the road yet). Thanks Richard and Charles. And I did improve my gear selection since this time last year and it does make a great difference. I’m now getting better performance for the same effort.
Finally, we arrived into the motel on the far side of McPherson at 12.30 with the heat making a quick shower very desirable.
It was a straightforward day with little new to be seen. It was nice that we got in early enabling me to get a bit of washing done. Great drying out.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Yesterday: “Holy cow!” from Sarge as we came over the brow of a hill to behold the largest feedlot we have seen so far with thousands of cattle…stretched for ages along the route.

DAY 25 : JUNE 25: DODGE CITY (KS) TO GREAT BEND (KS)

2008-06-25T20:00:00.011-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 85 miles
Cycling time: 5 hrs 42 mins
Average Speed: 14.8 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 456 ft

Average Heart rate: 93 bpm

Distance so far: 1813 miles

Ascent so far: 61,076 ft.

Centuries so far: 5
Punctures so far: 3
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:
Dedication: Today is for all the children whom I have met in Providence since 1999 including (back) Iawanlang, Ibameker, Stevenson, and (front)Rebecca, Larisa and Wilbert.

Today’s 85 miles was not a tough one as the ground was slightly downhill and the wind was favourable. No great heat till we got close to Great Bend.

The best news of the day was that Steve was back in the saddle after not feeling the best for the last few days culminating in that horrendous 15 miles for him into Garden City. He was back to himself this morning and eager for the road. Appetite is back so the fuel for the challenge can be taken on. Great to have him back to bring the Tree Amigos to full strength.
Last night after dinner as the general street traffic became quiet I noticed the continuing roar of cattle trucks outside. I wondered if it would last all night. It wasn’t just the noise. The ground shook just like outside the old Amber station on the Bansha Road. Was I in for a sleepless night? I could do without that. The truck traffic continued but as soon as I hit the hay I just drifted into peaceful sleep. I woke up once during the night and the trucks were still rolling and rumbling but I just resumed my peaceful slumber.
We rode out of Dodge at dawn on our steeds and headed east to clean up a few other troublesome spots. On the hill over the city we looked back with our own memories. I suppose it brought me back to the days of playing cowboys up in the orchard and in the grove. Looking at the old Westerns will never be the same again.
Dodge City’s reputation was based on longhorn cattle. Longhorn cattle were driven up from the grazing fields of Texas on the Chisholm Trail to the stockyards by the railway. Cowboys were on free-time after many hard days in the saddle (I know how they felt) an so Dodge City became a boomtown, with all the usual accompaniments of frontier boomtowns: saloons, gambling halls, gunfighters, and women. A number of longhorn still graze by the city sign.
We were generally riding into the sun but heading more north-east than yesterday. It was to be a light south wind today and we hoped to capitalise on it. Coupled with the fall of ground (we’re back now to around 1800 feet) it made for a good ride. We wondered how Steve would cope but he cruised along with us generally at 16+ mph.
When we left at 7 am the temperature was at 71 F (21 C)
Scenery today was much as yesterday with a few changes. Once we left Dodge I notice an end to all the irrigation by moving booms and channels and it was like that for the day. On enquiry I was told that the humidity at night really dampens the soil in this area and is sufficient for growth. Also there was more combine activity to be observed.
In this area, I was told, it is mostly large industrial farms but as we move further east we’ll come across more family ranches. The tall grain silos, sometimes in pairs, continued to appear on the far horizon ahead. To give ourselves intermediate goals, one of us was sure to jokingly call out ‘New York ahead!’. It worked and helped the miles to fall away. Not that the road was boring.
At one stage, around the 30 mile mark, the Ford County deputy-sheriff in his car pulled in ahead of us and flagged us down. What now? He informed us that motorists had called in reporting bikers cycling out on the smooth carriageway. Too dangerous on these roads with trucks meeting cars or trucks overtaking trucks. We were well in on the shoulder in single file all the time. He just asked us to pass the word on to the others ‘as soon as we caught up with them’ of the folly and the danger of their ways. (That message has been conveyed to the group at Route Rap) He asked where we came from and our destination. Was interested in our stories and wished us well on our way. Didn’t think it was appropriate to ask him to stand in for a photo.
At one stage we spotted at least 100 windmills up ahead. Not a good sign. The last time we saw those we were into a wind funnel as we left Provo (UT) (see Day 14).
It took us a while to come level with them with no significant adverse wind and we ‘tip-toed’ by not tempting fate. Head-wind is just the pits.

We are not halfway across yet (that will come soon) but today we came to Midway, the point halfway between San Francisco and New York (not the silo New York) ….1561 miles from each. It is well marked and also the location of a sod-house museum. Inside is a sod-house that early settlers constructed as well as all kinds of domestic and farm utensils from the early days. One could spend an age there, but the thought of the wind changing around mid-day urged us on. We remembered the too-long dally at Royal Gorge and the resulting struggle with viscious head-wind (see Day 20)
Great Bend is named from the historical big bend in the Arkansas River. One of its claims to fame is that Jack Kilby, co-inventor of the integrated circuit in 1958 and the hand-held calculator spent his early years here and attended school in Great Bend. He developed these while working with Texas Instruments. A fair contribution to the modern world. Agriculture is the mainstay of the local economy. Oil was important till 1960 even with an oil-well in the city park. Might need to be revisited with gas here now up around $4 a US gallon. That would roughly be 70c /litre at home.

The 85 miles just took over 5 hours and we pulled into our motel in Great Bend at 1.45 pm. Another relatively early finish.

Another smooth day’s cycle and completed before the big heat. At 4.30 in Great Bend the temperature was 102 degrees. In spite of sameness there is also a variety and the slow progress on the bike gives an opportunity to take it all in. Stopping to ask about everything just isn’t on, or we wouldn’t be home till dark.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Seen Yesterday: In the Kansas Teachers Hall of Fame “Teachers have Class” and I’m bringing a copy home.

NB: Went into O’Reilly Autoparts to day to enquire re Irish connection. It is a national chain and founded in 1957 by Charles H. (Chub) O'Reilly a descendant of a Michael Byrne O'Reilly who emigrated to America from Ireland in 1849, escaping from the hard times of the potato famine. Couldn’t say from what part of Ireland.

DAY 24: JUNE 24: GARDEN CITY (KS) TO DODGE CITY (KS)

2008-06-24T17:33:00.013-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 52 miles
Cycling time: 3hrs 33 mins
Average Speed: 14.1 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 558 ft

Average Heart rate: 105 bpm

Distance so far: 1728 miles

Ascent so far: 60,620 ft.

Centuries so far: 5

Punctures so far: 3

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:

Dedication: Today is for all the pupils in Providence School, Shillong including Saimon, Mumpy and Risalin and praying that they always enjoy good health and abundant energy.

Today was a recovery day after two tough centuries back to back. 52 miles wouldn’t be too bad and a chance to complete it before the heat and the winds of the afternoon. Loading and breakfast were a little later than usual and all hit the road by 7.30 at the latest.
Our route took us back onto Route 50 East and there we cycled for the duration.
Steve had to sit it out today. Yesterday’s last 15 miles drained him completely as he had been less than 100% since last Saturday evening. Better to be cautious at this stage- there are plenty days left.
So ‘Sarge’ and I set out together in the crisp morning air as the grain trucks lined up to unload their cargos at the collection points on the edge of Garden City. Grain, silos, maize in its early stages and irrigation dominated the scenery as we moved along. We maintained a steady pace of 15mph and others joined in for periods along the way.
The different communities along the route had their own co-op each with its massive silos. Dodge City Co-Op had one out the country and there is a much larger one on the principal road (Wyatt Earp Boulavard) into the Old Town.
Again we passed several feedlots with one easily measuring half-mile along the road. It was feeding time and all were feeding at the same precise time They are used for finishing livestock, notably beef, cattle, prior to slaughter. They may contain thousands of animals in an collection of pens Before entering a feedlot, cattle spend most of their life grazing on rangeland .Once cattle obtain an entry-level weight, about 650 pounds (300 kg), they are transferred to a feedlot to be fed a specialized diet. The animal may gain an additional 400 pounds (180 kg) during its 3-4 months in the feedlot. Didn’t come across any longhorn cattle today.

Only one SAG stop today and it was located beneath the water tower in Ingalls at the 27 mile mark. Each community has its water tower to enable gravity feed. The older ones (see Sunday June 22) create a real western feel. But the more modern ones have their own beauty and symmetry.
Our route generally follows the old Santa Fe Trail that linked Missouri and New Mexico. On the Santa Fe Trail, hundreds of freight wagons laden with trade goods lumbered along taking 6 or 7 weeks to cover the 800 miles just doing 12 to 1 miles per day and always with the threat of attack. It was in use for 50 years till the railroad eventually went west. The ruts from the constant use can still be spotted in places on the slopes as in the centre background. We on our bikes are moving a lot faster than wagons and still we are almost 4 weeks away from California.

Numerous pumps are to be seen and heard as we move along. Pumpjacks were pumping oil at a slow but constant rate. The electric motors signified that water was being drawn up to irrigate the fields.

By far the most common tractor I have seen for the last two days is the John Deere with agents in all the towns. That familiar green livery is unmistakable.

In Dodge City itself I spotted an auto-shop that has to have one of our own somewhere in the ownership line….and probably a Cavan connection.I dropped into the Kansas Teachers Hall of Fame and met another customer there from Ballymahon in Longford who was returning home for a visit in 3 weeks. Told her to bring her brolly and heavy coat.
A few miles short of Dodge City there was no mistaking what lay ahead. The approach is dominated by wild cowboys in silhouette and it provided a great photo op. One extra cowboy up there.. It is regarded now as the meat-packing capital of the US with 11,000 cattle being processed each day.

Dodge City had more famous (and infamous) gunfighters working at one time or another than any other town in the West. Wyatt Earp and Doc Halliday were lawmen here and earned their pay.

Just on the way into Dodge is Boot Hill where they buried them with their boots on and I paid it a visit. All remains have been moved ond only a few plaques remain. A section of the Old Town has been somewhat preserved for the tourist and the Boot Hill Museum allow the visitor to relive the legends.

WE arrived safely at our Comfort Motel in Dodge City at 11.45 am and our rooms were ready. An early finish and a chance to rest. Tomorrow will be 85 miles and a lot depends on the wind and heat in the mid afternoon.

In the evening a number of us went to a short Western variety show in the Boot Hill Museum with a bit of gunfire on the old Dodge City street

It was an ideal recovery day. One needs such days once in a while. It was mainly downhill and wind was not a factor. I know that the scenery was much the same as yesterday (and probably the same tomorrow) but that's life! Really enjoyed it.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard today: 'The journey is the destination'

Day 23: June 23: LAMAR (CO) TO GARDEN CITY (KS)

2008-06-23T20:57:00.010-06:00

Time Zone : Central (GMT -6)
Todays Distance: 104 miles
Cycling time: 8hrs 03 mins
Average Speed: 12.9 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 1056 ft

Average Heart rate: 97 bpm

Distance so far: 1676 miles

Ascent so far: 60,122 ft.
Centuries so far: 5
Punctures so far: 3
Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:

Dedication: Today is for all those children in Providence, including Caroline, Balarisha and Rajesh who work so hard to master the various vocational skills – tailoring, confectionary, papermaking, candlemaking, carpentry, beauty-care, commercial cooking etc.

Today was another century, two in two days or three in the course of four days. We would enter a new state and a new time-zone.
There were thunderstorms forecast for the afternoon in Garden City and so everyone packed the rain-gear just in case. As it turned out there was no need. The route again generally followed the course of the Arkansas River although we didn’t see it very often. Plenty of greenery around during the early stages and temperatures were quite pleasant as we left at just after 6 am.
The Arkansas River that we did see bore no resemblance to the mountain torrent that we accompanied out of Salida. It moved much slower and didn’t have near the same volume of water. Much of it had been diverted for irrigation purposes into channels around the fields.
Another means of irrigation used extensively was large moving booms ( some up to 400 metres long) swinging in an arc covering a full circle or a semi circle. These moved on wheels almost 4 feet in diameter and resulted in green circular fields viewed best from the air (or on maps.google). The water came from deep wells at the centre of the arc.

For the first 50 miles we had a tail-wind behind us and we moved smoothly on relatively quiet roads at 18 to 20 mph with little or no effort. The idea of a century (after yesterdays 121 miles) held little fear for us. We were already half way there. I had the preconception that Kansas was flat. If so, we were not in typical Kansas today. It was rolling without anything too demanding. Hills are only number three on my X-list the others being headwind and great heat.
First SAG was at 33 miles and we arrived there very fresh. Someone had used their imagination to find a safe place to park in the Rest Area by Highway 50 while taking on calories and water.
Shortly after that SAG we came to the state-line. Goodbye to Colorado and hello Kansas. This is now the 5th state on my trek across 14 of them. It also marks our passing from Mountain Time Zone to Central Time. We are now only 6 hours behind Ireland. Always getting closer.
In places there was no cultivation and even abandoned homesteads but these areas weren’t extensive. In general today’s route was through fertile country in ccomparison to previous days.
With so much barley and maize it was only to be expected that grain silos would be visible regularly. Large ones in co-ops and smaller ones in individual ranch-yards. I expect we will see many more as we cross the state - 5 more days.
There were many feed-lots along our route today again with thousands of cattle being fattened in each. You knew one was coming up – especially when we had a headwind. The nose could pick one out. But not all cattle were in feedlots. Some had a less crowded existence although I wouldn’t like to ‘lock horns’ with them on one of their off-days.
Yesterday was a quiet one in the fields but it was back to work today with the baling to be done. They don’t have to worry about the drying over here judging by our experience over the last few days. Their worry might be that the lot would just disappear in the case of a tornado.
In the mid afternoon the wind began to swing and change and blow right down on our noses. It wasn’t violent but added to the effort. Temperatures began to climb up into the mid-90s and that just drains energy. Steve in our group had what one might call an energy slump around the 85 mile mark and we slowed the pace to accommodate. Everyone found the combination of heat, wind and rather tiring terrain over the final miles a bit much to take. We arrived safely at the motel just before 5 pm (Central Time)
In the Tour de France etc the names of the top riders are often written on the road to encourage them on to victory. I must have a fan-club over here who have been busy with the paint-brush. Anything that encourages is OK by me. But the only victory I seek is that sufficient funds will be raised to ensure that the children of Providence get a break by means of education.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

PS. As I type this there is a a right bit of a thunderstorm with constant lightning outside. Par for the course, I believe.

DAY 22: JUNE 22: PUEBLO (CO) to LAMAR (CO)

2008-06-22T21:20:00.007-06:00

Time Zone : Mountain (GMT -7)
Todays Distance: 121 miles
Cycling time: 8hrs 25 mins
Average Speed: 14.3 mph
Today’s cumulative ascent: 798 ft
Average Heart rate: 103 bpm

Distance so far: 1572 miles
Ascent so far: 59,066 ft.

Centuries so far: 4
Punctures so far: 3

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:

Dedication: To day is for my 5th Year Maths students in the Abbey whose summer tests I corrected yesterday in Pueblo. Enjoy the summer.

Today was special as it was the start of Tour de Plains and it was to be the longest single distance of the trip (121 miles). It was a ride with very little ascent; the wind was non-existent except that it blew against us for the last 15 miles but not as viciously as on Friday last.
Being a long day it demanded an early start and my alarm was set for 4.15 am after a good eight hours sleep. I felt refreshed and eager for the challenge and after loading at 5am we went to the Country Kitchen next to our motel for breakfast – porridge with bacon and scrambled egg. The early start was to enable us to get into Lamar before the great heat and the expected adverse winds
Everyone was pleased that those who had been a little ill over the last few days were all back in the saddle. By 6 we were on the road heading east as usual with the sky still brightening. Long sleeves were in use but we knew it would only be for a short period As we passed through the suburbs of Pueblo, I got the feeling that there must be an Irish presence there with Jerry Murphy Boulevard and I spotted a large auto yard with the sign Mc Laughlins.
Our route was generally descending over the wide plains. The roads still stretched away in front of us but there was enough variety on either side to keep one occupied. The railway ran beside us with little activity except for one coal train that kept passing us forever – definitely more than a hundred cars. I couldn’t count them as they were all identical.
As we were moving down the valley of the Arkansas River there was quite an amount of tillage on either side with irrigation channels through the fields and irrigation booms slowly moving across other large tracts. Barley had been harvested in places
while in other spots it needed a little more time. Corn (maize) was the only other cereal that I spotted from my saddle.
I enjoyed and wallowed in the smell in places of freshly-turned soil. It brings me back. Vast fields with perfectly parallel drills were producing with assistance from the water channels. Being Sunday I didn’t see any labour in the fields or on the ranches.
SILAGE AND HARVESTER
Neat clumps of silage appeared regularly, slid straight out of the harvester and lined up like pan loaves in Brudair’s in Bank Place.
In other areas it was grassland, a rather burned –up type of grassland. The soil was heavy and the grass just had to fend for itself and go deep for the bit of moisture.
We saw as many horses as cattle on these ranches and they noticed us as we passed by on this quiet Sunday morning. My two companions are excellent animal mimics and they have the animal population of the USA driven scatty, including dogs and goats and horses and even llamas.
We passed a few large cattle feedlots with thousands and thousands of cattle corralled in for intensive feeding before slaughter. Naturally these created a distinctive aroma but I quite liked it for the period we were passing by. One feedlot stretched a good half-mile along the road.
We all had our share of punctures in our usual group of three today. I had my third of the trip so far. This time it was in the back wheel. But the other two (Steve and ‘Sarge’) had both wheels flat at the same time. Handy. We didn’t have to put the repair kit back into the bags and only had to wash the hands once. However worse was to befall another rider. He fell on the road today and was rushed to hospital back in Pueblo by ambulance. We haven’t got word back yet from the doctors regarding his condition.
We had three SAG stops on this long day and at the third one I was interviewed by the editor of the Bent County Democrat, Dan Cunningham concerning the To Providence for Providence cycle who happened to be at the local store. He says that an article will appear in next weeks edition and a copy will be on the way to Tipp.
Hasty Town is merely a village in our terms and it was at the 100 mile mark on the route. The local Post Office just across from our stop looked authentic and genuine in design.The mid afternoon (2.00 –4.00 pm) is the hottest part of the day and the roads ahead of us shimmered in the heat; like seeing a mirage. It wasn’t oppressive and didn’t cause any discomfort. The ever-present light shifting wind helped cool matters.
As we neared the end of our 121 miles the sun was directly behind us. It had gone a full 180 degrees since outset. We had a slight headwind but the realisation that we had almost completed the longest day and still felt fresh helped us along. There was a need to pedal all the time today but it was not a battle with the elements.
We arrived at the motel at 5.15 and checked in immediately at the Cow Palace, reflecting place of beef in the local economy.

Enjoyed the day with a definite agricultural blas to it. A satisfying day starting the third section of the trip
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard Today: Reminding me that we’re in this for the long haul. Plenty of days left.“Go to the well and draw from it; but don’t drain it”

Day 21: Saturday June 21: Rest Day: Pueblo (CO)

2008-06-21T19:47:00.000-06:00

A well earned rest day and a chance to catch up on affairs. And two nights in the same bed – some simple things can mean a lot. Posting up yesterday’s photos was the first item on the menu and completed by mid-day. E-mails, laundry and shopping for essentials, all at a leisurely pace were completed in time. Completed the correction of summer maths tests and returned the grades to the Abbey for summer reports. Had another look at comments coming in on the blog. They really help and are appreciated.
The bike gets a wash-down and lubrication and all ready for tomorrow – the longest distance of all - 121 miles (almost 200 km). The next eight days will see us out of Colorado, through Kansas and onto the banks of the Missouri.Looking forward to it.

DAY 20: JUNE 20: SALIDA (CO) TO PUEBLO (CO)

2008-06-21T11:17:00.000-06:00

Time Zone : Mountain (GMT -7)
Todays Distance: 102 miles
Cycling time: 8hrs 17 mins
Average Speed: 11.9 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 3435 ft

Average Heart rate: 99 bpm

Distance so far: 1451 miles
Ascent so far: 58,268 ft.
Centuries so far: 3
Punctures so far: 2

Today’s Profile:
Today’s Route:

Dedication: Today is for all those children in Providence including Skhembor and Khrawbok who keep me going even when the going gets tough. If you can do it……then I can do it.

With certain relief that Monarch Pass was behind us I expected that to-day should be easier. The profile looked favourable and we all assumed (see Heard Today below) that the cycling would be a doddle. Dangerous to assume anything. But it was a game of two halves.

An early departure was called for as there were thunder storms predicted for the Pueblo for the late afternoon and it would be advisable to be in prior to those breaking. My alarm was off at 4.45 am with loading at 5.30, and departure shortly after 6. I reckoned that we’d see Pueblo by noon. It was colder than usual, especially when we cycled into the shadow of the mountains ….a difference of 5 degrees between shade and sunlight. We knew that it would warm up as the morning wore on and that heat could be an issue before the end of day.
I wore my Xilinx shirt today (see Thursday May 29) as I was passing through Colorado. A few looked at me twice at breakfast not recognising me without the Providence shirt. But they did admire it, it being a unique issue.
The early hours of today’s cycle saw us cycling along Highway 50 accompanying the Arkansas River as it raced downwards towards the Mississipi over 1200 miles away. As we cycled along the headwaters of this main tributary of the Mississippi-Missouri system it was a torrent as a result of the melting snows.
Every few miles there were slipways and advertisements for white-water rafting but we were iut a bit early to see the action. As we approached the first SAG stop the busses were bringing rafts and rafters well upstream for an adrenaline-filled day. Here as a mountain torrent it drops 4000 feet in 100 miles
The water in the Arkansas seemed to be cascading as fast as we were moving. If I had thrown in a 7-Up bottle as we left I feel it would have been in Pueblo as fast as us. (as things panned out, it would have been in the Mississippi itself !)

Cycling through the Arkansas canyon was beautiful –every turn and bend brought a new postcard. My head was continuously turning from the river to the rock formations above and the smaller canyons.
We moved along at an effortless 18mph turning the big ring always descending and the day slowly warming up. Pure heaven. Our group of 4 (later to expand to 5) was an international one – Trinidad, Australia, Netherlands and Ireland (the later extra from New Zealand).
An odd stop was made for photos but I regularly snapped from the saddle. I have taken an average of 100 photos per day so far. I could possibly lose a lot of friends when I return home should I ever mention to them in a dull moment in conversation ‘Did I ever show you my holiday snaps?’
First SAG was at mile 37 in a lay-by on the bank of the river. Everything had been in our favour. This was the first half –playing with the wind and the hill. By this stage sunscreen needed to topped up and bottles refilled.
A suggestion had been made at Route Rap yesterday evening that a bit of an optional detour (an extra 8 miles and a bit of a short sharp climb) would bring us to the Royal Gorge (not the Royal George). I was all in favour of doing it; others were easy about it so we went. The reasoning was that this was a downhill day and a Rest Day tomorrow and we could make another century out of the day’s 95 miles. As it turned out the short sharp climb was a taxing one. By the end of the day we may have regretted doing the extra but the Gorge was spectacular. Possibly we just spent too much time there.
The Royal Gorge on the Arkansas River has the highest suspension bridge in the world –1053 feet above the surface. I noted an unnecessary notice as I cycled over ‘No fishing from the bridge’! The bridge itself is surrounded by a veritable theme-park with animal reserve, cable-car, funicular to the bottom etc.
I got to close quarters with buffalo at last – lovely cute animals !!
Today a rally of Prowler cars centered on the bridge – 60 on all from all over the world. All had personalised plates and one with the registration RTE 66 – could it have been Gay or Pat ?
Cycling over the bridge (880 feet and 18 feet wide) I could sense a little swaying but it was something else to look down to the river. ‘That’s 1053 feet – and we have climbed 50 of those since we started ! And we’ll do another 50 before we finish ! Unbelievable.
Spent too much time there looking and having ice-cream and to cap it all I had a flat when it was time to move on – front wheel again. But every cloud has a silver lining, they say. It happened outside a restaurant in the shade and beside a park bench. Couldn’t have happened in a better place. Didn’t take long to replace the tube. Speaking of clouds. Just then large drops began to fall. Prowlers began to cover up and we surmised that these thunderstorms were arriving a bit early. Fortunately, it all passed off without the ground getting seriously wet. It had been a worthwhile detour.
3 more miles brought us back on the days route and we looked forward to continue our course down by the Arkansas as far as Pueblo in no time at all.
Stopped off in Cañon City for a bite of lunch. Resuming the journey and all started to change. Still had 40 miles to cover. Outside Cañon we were into rolling hills – no problem in that– but then the headwind started to strengthen and strengthen. We had to pedal hard to maintain 10 mph on the downslope even and dig deep on the rise. The miles moved very slowly on the cyclocomputers. And still over 30 miles to go.
The crests of hills just kept coming at us. Never-ending. It took effort to just remain positive. Jeff who was visibly finding it hardest was the one to keep spirits up with constant good humour in the face of adversity.
Second SAG at 70 miles and the wind was still as strong as ever. No easing but it did switch into a vicious sidewind coming in from the left.
The heavy storm-clouds were off to our right so we had missed that. This was the first less-than; friendly cloudscape we had seen since leaving San Francisco three weeks ago. Those who were in the motel earlier had escaped the worst of this wind.
Eventually the beginning of the Pueblo sprawl appeared and spirits lifted. We knew that we were almost there even though we had more than likely missed Route Rap for Monday. Route Rap at the end of a section (today is the end of the Rockies Tour) is special as we bid farewell to those who are about to leave us. Sorry to have missed that.
Our motel, Days Inn, finally appeared at 6.15. We had been on the road for 12 hours with just over 8 hours cycling. But we had prevailed. High fives all round. A phone call to Margaret and a shower worked wonders (remember www) and by 7.00 it was off down to the Golden Corral for dinner. Had a steak from the buffet and it was delicious. Felt that I had earned it.
It certainly was a tough day but then the heart-rate was under 100 principally on account of the easy first half. The upcoming Rest Day was something to look forward to. Hard going; long hours; plenty of pedalling but for you kids in Providence if it all means that we raise funds for your school, it is all well worthwhile. Hang in there, man.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Heard today: “Never just assume; it often makes an ASS out of U and ME”.

DAY 19: JUNE 19: GUNNISON (CO) TO SALIDA (CO)

2008-06-19T21:00:00.000-06:00

Time Zone : Mountain (GMT -7)
Todays Distance: 66 miles
Cycling time: 6hrs 00 mins
Average Speed: 11 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 4186 ft

Average Heart rate: 105 bpm

Distance so far: 1349 miles

Ascent so far: 54,833 ft.

Today’s Profile:

Today’s Route:

Dedication: Today is for Johnstar, James K and Khlainbor and the children in Providence who have had such a great influence on the Abbey students over the years. Thank you.

Today was a special day; we were taking on mighty Monarch Pass, we were passing from the Pacific side to the Atlantic side and we would be at our highest altitude of the whole cycle. Last night was an early night for all and plenty of water consumed for maximum hydration.
At breakfast there was a certain downbeat atmosphere when we realised that some of the group wouldn’t be able to cycle on this special day. Some for personal reasons had to depart and a few others were victims to tummy upset and on Monarch one needed the whole of one’s health. It did cast a bit of a cloud on the day. Please God, they will be fit and well and able to resume very soon.

All loaded at 6.30 and we hit the road full of enthusiasm into the rising sun as always. It was cooler than usual possibly because of the altitude of Gunnison at 7681 feet. I t was going to be a day of just one mega-climb.
Our usual group for this special day. We have an agreed strategy and maintain contact throughout. On some days riders join in for periods.
The early part was through farming land with plenty of green pasture and the upper reaches of the Gunnison River coming against us. Wide open pasture, small farmyards and very few animals to be seen and no tillage.
Today I saw the first buffalo in a field far to our right. Would like to get closer to some of these animals. Also got a glimpse of some elk but was gone too far to get a photo. And we came across some gophers (small burrowing rodents native to North America) during a short break. Nice to came across these creatures that I’m not familiar with. Birdsong was more audible today than any day so far. By 12 miles we came into the small town of Parlin – ‘Parlin Country’…didn’t I hear of that somewhere before?
All the rivers were flowing to capacity as a result of the snow melting higher up in the Rockies. Some water was taken off into trenches and was to be seen lodging in grass fields. All rivers since the start of the cycle have been flowing against us; all this water will end up in the Pacific; we have been cycling up these river valleys. But all this is to change later in the day.
First SAG came after 29 miles at the entrance to Monarch Valley Ranch in a most scenic spot. All bottles filled and bananas taken to fuel the system for the climb ahead. In conversation to someone I mentioned the original expansion of WWW of internet repute. You know what it is? Will tell you at the top.
We knew that the climb up to Monarch’s pass was going to be 9 miles and that knowledge in itself was beneficial…..no wondering if the top would be around the next corner. That would have been a recipe for disaster.
The climb started at milepost 190 and these posts spelled out our progress upwards. We maintained a rate of 5.5 mph in the early stages and completed the climb at the rate of 4.5 mph. Thus it was a 2 hour task but luckily the heat was pleasant and no adverse wind.
The climbing was constant and unforgiving……no level bits where you could ease back. It went on and on and on at a constant 6% gradient..
Trucks going up were growling and those coming down seemed to be racing in their low gears. When a line built up the smell of brake-liners took over from the trees on our right.
We stopped once to take on water and twice to look back at the distance we had come up and take a few photos but never long enough for the muscles to cool down. The air was getting thinner; we were now at 10,000 feet and my ears popped repeatedly but with no discomfort. I found the only difficulty in breathing at the very start. Once I got into my groove and maintained the constant pedalling, the breathing and the heart-rate caused no panic. I was pleased at the end of the day to record a remarkably low average heart-beat…105 bpm.
Like all good things it had to come to an end. The 9 miles completed, there was a shout of joy as we spotted the SAG wagon above. We were there at 12.15 pm.with perfect weather and the snow still on much of the ground.
Shouts of ‘Congratulations’ and ‘Well done’ exchanged by cyclists and high fives all round. A great feeling of euphoria. We had conquered the beast. We felt on top of the world and amazingly no one was panting or gasping for breath or dropping with aching limbs. This had to be a very special Kodak moment to record our achievement. Not everyone gets the opportunity.

I had cycled up from the Pacific coast…
And now it was tally-ho for the Atlantic.
No one was keen on moving off too quickly; it had taken too much effort to get up here. Quite a few took the gondola up another 700 feet to view the many peaks of the Rockies over 14,000 feet. It was freezing with a blasting bitter wind outside. Not tempted to stay too long.
It was something else. This was the great divide stretching away into the distance.
Inside the viewing station I had a foot in both camps, straddling the world like a Colossus. The public are asked to put a pin on the map of the world indicating their place of origin..I was the first pin in Ireland and in the visitors book I entered my comment in Irish. To let you in on an important piece of information. WWW is the company motto.....and don't forget it!
A 10 mile descent lay ahead of us and I didn’t wish it to pass by in a whirr. Not a day for heroes. The three of us took our time and made more stops on the descent than on the ascent. It was fabulous. The whole day was fabulous. It had been a permanent smile…so wonderful.
Around each corner of the descent I could feel the temperature rising accordingly and after 10 miles (pedals inactive) it was a level cycle into Salida where we overnight in the Gateway Inn
At 3 pm we checked in and headed for the showers….the smiles of satisfaction still on our faces.

What a day! It was something special, a once in a lifetime experience. And we did it together at our own steady pace.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Seen Today:

DAY 18 : JUNE 18: MONTROSE (CO) TO GUNNISON (CO)

2008-06-18T20:49:00.000-06:00

Time Zone : Mountain (GMT -7)
Todays Distance: 62 miles
Cycling time: 5hrs 56 mins
Average Speed: 10.4 mph

Today’s cumulative ascent: 5040 ft

Average Heart rate: 110 bpm

Distance so far: 1283 miles

Ascent so far: 50,647 feet.

NB Problems with my Garmin GPS today so a rough profile and a different map.

Today's Profile:Today's Route:
Dedication: Today is for the hard-working and pleasant pupils of Providence including Charlie, Rebecca, Anameka and Banri . I’ll keep pedalling up these hills for you and do remember me at assembly prayer each morning, please.

Today was a different day for a number of reasons. We were really hitting the Rockies hard – no punches pulled, no prisoners taken. This was a serious climbing task. Also we had plenty of company on the route. 2,500 other cyclists doing Ride the Rockies shared the route with us as far as Gunnison. They were going 30 miles further to Crested Butte. Room for everyone on the road.

An early start needed to avoid the afternoon heat so my alarm went off at 5 am. Great to be up at that hour! Loading completed at 6.30 and already the Ride the Rockies cyclists were on the road. No bunching or jostling but passing and being passed with a greeting or encouragement being exchanged.
We had our usual SAG stops, but the stops for the larger group were like towns on market day. It was similar at the few small towns along the way and on both summits. Their group had all sizes and shapes; young, mature and older; various types of bikes- orthodox, recumbent, tandem, wheelchair using their hands and I spotted a one-armed cyclist cruising up the climbs.
The first climb started 3 miles outside Montrose and lasted for a good 2 miles and we had to cope with the ever-present headwind along that stretch of road. The gradient was gradual and our group just kept turning away. In time the summit was attained and bottles replenished. All along this climb we were in greenery – a change from the lat ten days. At times it seemed I was cycling up by Hollyford and on towards Dolla. Great cycling area. The road climbed and turned so we had new views regularly.
SUMMIT 1
It was a relief to come to the summit ( Cerro Summit) knowing that a long descent was awaiting. Crowds gathered around the various wagons for supplies. The descent in itself (3 miles), we knew, would be gratifying, but the scenery was so beautiful that I slowed up just to take it in and attempt to capture it on film. But, it was all around and above and below and every turn and twist on the road brought a new picture-postcard. It’s better that a few photos should tell the tale.
The descent brought us back to the banks of the Gunnison River as it rushed strongly against us. One could imagine a group rafting on its strong current. Passing through the small town of Cimarron just gave us a little relief before the big climb. My front tyre had gone a bit soft and needed a couple of pounds. My fear was that it was a slow puncture but it stayed hard for the rest of the journey. Will need to recheck before we set off in the morning.
We were all psyched up for this 7 mile climb that would bring us to the highest point of the day. Cyclists were moving at all different speeds…we just kept to our pace as it turned and twisted up and up. The top was never to be around the next bend or over the next brow. Patience. Patience. And there on top was our own SAG stop with goodies and more water. At 8,822 feet, snow was still on the ground just across from us .
From here to the end it was a series of descents around rocky corners and then small climbs as the mercury was beginning to climb. I can see why they are called the Rockies. Every mile brought a surprise and a gasp.
It was amazing how peaceful it became on this section of the route. During short periods when there was no cyclists coming up behind, the surroundings were the essence of peace with not a noise in the world but the sound of birds. We had our stops for photos and to enjoy the peace. Let the world rush by; this experience (sights and sounds) is unique.
The Gunnison River is dammed to form Blue Mesa Reservoir 20 miles long. Just below the dam we got a glimpse of the deep Gunnison Canyon. Water sports facilities dot the perimeter and I see that the zebra mussels are a threat here also as they are on the Shannon. The mussels are in other Colorado lakes and recreationists must obtain a certificate stating that they have not been in other waters over the last 30 days. If they have been, they must wash and dry their watercraft satifying the park visitor centre. Today the waters were calm and peaceful and only disturbed by a few fishermen. We spent almost 2 hours moving along by the reservoir.
The final 10 miles into Gunnison finally brought us through an amount of farmland and we arrived at the motel at 1 pm. Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday were in Gunnison in 1882 shortly after the ‘gunfight at the OK Corral’ We had arrived in different circumstances but sharing Earp’s stated philosophy of gunfighting (we apply it to cycling) “Stay calm, keep your mouth shut, take your time and only ‘figger on pullin’ the trigger once”. An early finish for us today. So early, that our rooms were not ready yet. Must slow down tomorrow! The three of us had stuck together all day and our steady even pace paid dividends. I feel we still have fuel in the tank for Monarch Pass tomorrow.

A unique day’s cycling and our last full day on the Pacific side of USA. Scenery was beautiful; it surrounded us and was continuously changing. Tomorrow we cross the continental divide and head for the Atlantic.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Seen today: Ride the Rockies organisers had directions and encouraging words written on the roadway. One of them read “Happiness is…… life on my bicycle saddle.”

DAY 17: JUNE 17: GRAND JUNCTION (CO) TO MONTROSE(CO)

2008-06-17T20:54:00.000-06:00

Time Zone : Mountain (GMT -7)
Todays Distance: 72 miles
Cycling time: 5hrs 58 mins
Average Speed: 12.1 mph
Today’s cumulative ascent: 2725 ft
Average Heart rate: 107 bpm

Distance so far: 1221 miles
Ascent so far: 45,607 ft.

Todays profile:

Today’s Route:

Dedication: Today is for Sadam, Aminur, Naphisabet, Sonia, Sainkupar, and Sangita in Providence, Shillong wishing them and all the children every success. Be good.

Today was meant to be recovery day before the climbing in the Colorado Rockies. The distance(72) was less than the average (80) and no serious climbs along the way although we gained over 1300 feet in altitude. We are now at 5820 feet and Monarch Pass on Thursday is at 11,312 feet. A lot of feet to be gained in 2 days. Well, we’ll take it as it comes.

The route out of Grand Junction was a bit involved so Sue (from Grand Junction) went through the details at Route Rap on Monday evening and also volunteered to lead us as a group out of town. At 7.30 am the pelethon pulled out en masse into the morning traffic on G Road. The roads in Colorado have their own logical sequence. The east/west roads are lettered (A,B,C etc) while the north/south roads in Grand Junction are numbered according to their distance from the Utah state-line (29 Road is 29 miles from the state-line. I even spotted 28¾ Road and B½ Road. ) At one stage today I was chuffed to be cycling along 32 Road….my personal auspicious number.
Part of the rout out of town was along the Colorado River Trail…a 10 mile bike path along the river. The river was flowing strongly against us and evidence of recent flooding was clear. There seem to be miles and miles of dedicated bike paths with regular access points for pedestrians, strollers, skaters and cyclists with a limit of 15 mph. Will we ever see the likes at home?
Occasionally there were maintained ponds with wildlife along the way with the Grand Mesa as a backdrop. The Grand Mesa is the largest table-top mountain in the world with an area of 500 sq miles on top and a height of 10,000 feet. It was on our left for most of the day between the Colorado and Gunnison rivers. Both rivers meet at Grand Junction…hence the name.
At one carpark the resident goose didn’t appreciate being disturbed in the early morning and let it be known. This bike-path brought us out onto 32 Road and clear of the built-up area. The valley around Grand Junction has the largest known concentration of oil-shale (the rock that burns) in the world, enough recoverable oil to meet the US demands for 110 years. Due to technological difficulties the harvesting of this oil is not economic. Present situation may lead to a re-think.
This brought us over the Colorado River and heading for I-50 East which we would follow for the rest of the day…. Easy navigation from there on. Early in the ride temperatures were pleasant but at noon it was reading 91 degrees.
Before we reached I-50 we were confronted by a prominent house – definitely every room with a view. It reminded me of cycling in Tuscany in 2006 where every town, every farmers place was perched on a hill. In the immediate environs of Grand Junction there was an amount of cultivation fruit and grapes. There is an extensive wine industry with a wine trail linking the various wineries for the benefit of the tourists. Vineyards here at 5,600 feet above sea-level are among the highest wine-producing regions in the world. The area’s warmdays and cool nights are conducive to producing top wines.
By the time we got on the I-50 the desert had taken over again and only scattered small-holdings were to be seen conducting small service industries but no land cultivation. This should be our last day of cycling through these vast high deserts. Such a vast expanse of land. The absence of water is a big problem. Where there is some water, the desert produces. If a man can be put on the moon and beyond, why couldn’t the desert be made to flower? Not a novel idea.

When we dropped down by mid-day into Delta on the banks of the Gunnison we had green fields of flourishing corn and bales of hay.
Today’s only SAG was at the summit of a short but stiff climb but there were extensive views in all directions across the Colorado desert. On these last few days there has been a heavy draw on the water barrels. On both sides of the route the same table-top horizon was with us.
Into this high ground some magnificent canyons are carved and week-end warriors take to the rough roads by jeep and by quads to be atone wit nature and survival. The majestic canyons aren’t by the Interstate but occasionally we got a glimpse of the odd un-remarkable canyon. One could just imagine how the big ones might impress.

We have had a fair share of long straight featureless roads over the last 10 days. I can only imagine how wearisome driving on them can become and the resulting danger from tiredness and fatigue …. the big danger. As at home, crosses mark the spots where lives have been lost. Moving into the Rockies proper tomorrow, I expect that we will have more variety.

Lunch today was in Delta City on the banks of the Gunnison river and I topped it off with a Root Beer Float…… gorgeous. I’m reliably informed that it is the real American thing just like apple pie. From Delta it was just 22 miles to the motel but temperatures were rising steadly and called for more sunscreen (better than reaching for rain-gear).
Many times during the course of the day, the SAG wagon passed up and down and made water available. It can be hailed in at any passing for whatever reason. Gives a great sense of security to know that it is there. The cycle staff are ever-conscious of our well-being and nothing is too much for them.

By early afternoon, we had arrived in Montrose with snow-capped peaks overlooking the town. We are not the only cyclists in town. The Ride the Rockies tour with 2,500 taking part are in town tonight also. That is a 7 day tour and both groups will pass on the same rout tomorrow……. It will be a little crowded and confusing so we will wear the America by Bicycle shirts to avoid confusion.
Another good day of cycling and no flats in our group…. just 4 today. We are a unique bunch which I will elaborate on in a future posting. A good nights sleep and plenty of water tonight is of the essence for tomorrow. Looking forward to it already.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

PS On the bike path today while I was cycling by myself for a period, a gentleman in a wheelchair was accessing the path. I waved to him bidding him the time of day but all he could do was smile. Raising the hand was not possible. Would make you think and thank.)

SPOTTED TODAY: Passing a Presbyterian Church on the outskirts of Grand Junction this sign caught my eye: ‘ Seven days without prayer makes one weak’. Interesting!